Pleiades XX from Sean Thackrey

Sean Thackrey’s Pleiades XX is as complicated and compelling as the man himself. You know the saying that owners begin to look like their dogs and vice versa. Well, it’s my observation that wine and winemakers have a similar relationship. It was the early 90′s when I first met Sean at some trade event. Like a moth to a flame, I was drawn to the disheveled mop of hair, the rumpled Australian duster and his wine-stained fingers. He always has something provocative and informative to say and his wines never resemble anyone else’s. I can’t explain for sure how this is achieved, though I’ve read plenty of theories like it’s the super hidden location of his Bolinas winery tucked under the Eucalyptus trees or the less than conventional winemaking practices he follows that he learned from reading ancient wine texts. All I do know for sure is that the twentieth edition of Pleiades, aka XX, is chock full of deep strawberry fruit and spice laden aromatics. Always a blend of several varietals, and never disclosed in any fine detail, what is printed on the label are the following grapes: Sangiovese, Viognier, Mourvedre, Syrah and Pinot Noir. There are likely more than that but who cares? Normally I would, but not in this instance. The flavors are so beautifully melded together, it becomes quite clear that Pleiades is not put together with leftovers, but is carefully crafted for a full vinous experience. Though the blend changes and the wine is different year to year, it is always a winner and the XX is a real standout. I mentioned already the strawberry fruit, but it’s a cinnamon stick aromatic and flavor that got me revved up. It sort of wafts in and out, but it’s in there and it’s captivating.

A couple of weeks back I mentioned my Paps B-day celebration. There were going to be Willowside Meats’ Ribeyes on the menu, so I brought along some gutsy Cali Cabernets because that’s what my peeps typically like. I brought a bottle of the Pleiades because that’s what I typically like. Though lighter-bodied and less flashy than the Cali Cabs on the table, it was the Pleiades XX that stole the show. “What is this?” “Who brought this (as if they needed to ask!)?” “Can we get more?” was echoed up and down the picnic table. “Pleiades XX from Sean Thackrey. Me. Yes!” I shouted. So sly, so glib, I smiled my victory smile. The long weekend ahead will enable another festive family gathering. And by all weather reports, I doubt I’ll be dipping into the Russian River like I did May 1st (hey, when your dad takes a swim in the frigid waters on his 86th B-day, you have no choice but to dive in too!), we will be popping more corks on Sean Thackrey’s Pleiades XX. –Anya Balistreri

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