2009 Mayacamas Range Zinfandel from Storybook Mountain Vineyards

Storybook Mountain Vineyards’ Zinfandels are my kind of Zinfandels. I like to be able to taste the fruit.  All too often in the attempt to extract as much power as possible, Zinfandels are pushed overboard so that alcohol and structure mask the intrinsic charm of Zinfandel – its fruit. A Zinfandel that doesn’t bowl you over isn’t necessarily a wimpy wine or one lacking in concentration. A balanced Zinfandel will, however, reward the wine drinker with nuance, layers of flavors and compatibility with food. The 2009 Mayacamas Range from Storybook Mountain is such a Zinfandel. A welcoming floral note greets the senses and moves on to cool dark raspberry fruit, hints of soil and juicy acidity on the palate. It is a silky Zinfandel that glides on and on.

Owner/winemaker Jerry Seps explained to me that the unique soil of his vineyards along with their eastern exposure and location in the coolest part of the Napa Valley, in the hillsides north of Calistoga, all contribute to the retention of vivid aromatics and the snappy fruit of his wines. The Aiken series clay soil that is found at Storybook Mountain Vineyards is quite rare in Napa and has a distinctive red color. The clay is volcanic in origin and rich in magnesium and iron. The Seps farm without herbicides or insecticides and are certified organic. Dr. Seps’ approach to winemaking, just like others whom I admire that work intimately with the vineyard, is to preserve the freshness of the fruit by basically standing out of the way. I was overcome by a feeling of familiarity when I last tasted the 2009 Mayacamas Range Zinfandel, like I was catching up with an old friend I haven’t seen in years – quickly falling back into laughter, inside jokes and intimacy. I think this emotional response comes from tasting a wine – one I’ve tasted many times over the years – that is sight specific and expressive of place. It tasted familiar because the Mayacamas Range Zinfandel from Storybook Mountain Vineyards will always have a constant at its core despite vintage variations. It’s no wonder Wine & Spirits Magazine has named Storybook Mountain Vineyards one of the Top 100 Wineries in the World nine times!

School’s out in a few days, summer is just around the corner and I’m starting to plan my next patio party. I’ll likely have my hubby grill something up, while I’ll handle the salads and sides. To complete my summer dinner party, a bottle of Zinfandel must grace the table. I won’t want one that will assault my senses. No way! That’s why I’ll be taking home a bottle of the 2009 Mayacamas Range Zinfandel from Storybook Mountain Vineyards. Sounds heavenly! –Anya Balistreri

2011 Matthiasson Napa Valley Linda Vista Vineyard Chardonnay

Napa Valley Chardonnay has come a long way since the San Francisco 49ers tasted their first Super Bowl win and 49er fans were lambasted as Chardonnay-drinking, Brie-eating elitists. Napa Valley Chardonnay has had an image problem in contrast to Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon which continues to attract cult-like devotion and adulation. My hopes are high though, pleased with the direction some producers are taking in preserving freshness and retaining acidity in their Chardonnay. I point to the 2011 Linda Vista Vineyard Chardonnay from Matthiasson as an example of a Napa Valley white that doesn’t sacrifice on fruit yet maintains a prominent acid profile. On the palate, I taste an abundance of crunchy green-apple fruit flavors that finish with a loud snap. It’s remarkably Old-World in style, as the oak regimen is only texturally noticeable. So for those who crave that toasty, vanillan oak on their Chardonnay, Matthiasson’s 2011 Linda Vista Vineyard Chardonnay is probably not going to do it for you. On the other hand, if you delight in the crackly fruit crunch of just-picked tree fruit and want those flavors to persist unobstructed, than this Chardonnay from Matthiasson is just the ticket.

Steve Matthiasson is a highly sought-after viticulturist who has parlayed his love of the grape to include making his own wine. Steve makes a white blend called simply Napa Valley White Wine that has held a permanent spot on our shelves as each vintage brings something unique and delicious. Over the years, along with his wife Jill, Steve has been experimenting with varietals and making one-offs from fruit he farms. I had been desperate to find a Chardonnay in the sub-$25 range that doesn’t come from a faceless, mass-production winery – not as easy to find as you’d think. So when I stumbled upon Steve’s Napa Valley Chardonnay I was obviously overjoyed. Linda Vista Vineyard is located literally behind their home and is farmed by Steve. To retain the freshness and zest of the cool 2011 harvest, Steve fermented the Chardonnay in neutral barrel and opted to prevent malolactic fermentation. He also left half the wine undisturbed in barrel and the other half got stirred only once for creaminess. Included in San Francisco Chronicle’s Top 100 Wines of 2012, The 2011 Linda Vista Chardonnay is a must with succulent sea creatures. Is it still crab season ’cause I’d love to wash down some cracked crab with this crackly Chardonnay? Way high on the Yum-meter!

I don’t know where I’ll be watching the Super Bowl yet, lots of fun options to consider. I am surprised to find myself feeling deeply nostalgic the last few weeks as I fondly remember the first 49er Super Bowl win. I’ll never forget the way strangers were embracing each other on the street, high-fiving everyone in sight. Just barely a teenager, I along with my brother and some friends ended up cheering with the mass of humanity that congregated on Broadway in North Beach. It never felt threatening or unsafe, though we did high tail it out of there when the police arrived in riot gear. Fun times indeed. So whether I decide to watch with friends or end up staying home, mark my words, I’ll be swirling Chardonnay and noshing on Brie. –Anya Balistreri

The Wine House SF Top Ten Wines Of 2012

Now that we’ve all settled into 2013, we have to say with excitement that this is going to be a great year! We are anxiously looking forward to all of the good things and the many great wines coming our way in 2013. But before we get too far into it, let’s have a look back as we reveal our Top Ten Wines of 2012!

The concept may sound simple … the top wines, right? Well, not so fast. We could tap into the multitude of reviews from wine writers and critics and fashion a list of highly rated, don’t drink until 2025, keep in a bank vault wines, but that’s not how we roll here at TWH. In years past, our Top Ten lists are comprised of wines we all love. Wines that deliver. Wines that outshine their respective price points. Wines that provide pleasure, because really, isn’t that what wine is all about? We taste a whole lot of wine throughout the year, both here and abroad, and only bring in the ones we deem worthy to be on our shelves for you, our customers. Choosing a Top Ten out of all of the wines we’ve said yes to is a fun albeit difficult exercise. It’s fun because we get to relive our tasting experiences, remembering the meals, the ambiance, and the company that went along with each wine. Remember, some of the wines have sold out, but we list them here based on their merits … So without further ado, here is The Wine House San Francisco’s Top Ten wines of 2012!!!

Please use these links to view our Top Ten from last year, 2010, or 2009.

NV Pascal Doquet Extra Brut Premier Crus Blancs de Blanc With New Year’s memories slowly fading, let’s begin with some bubbles. TWH mainstay Pascal Doquet makes some of the best Grower Champagne that we’ve encountered. He sure has been garnering praise recently from the likes of James Molesworth of The Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate’s Antonio Galloni. Why wouldn’t he? His artisanal Champagnes have been wowing our staff for over a decade! When this Extra Brut landed here in our shop this year, it instantly became a favorite of our staff and all customers who have tried it.Here’s what Mr. Galloni had to say about it, “Doquet’s NV Extra Brut Premier Crus Blanc de Blancs is pretty, soft and enveloping. Dried pears, spices, crushed flowers and almonds wrap around the palate in this expressive, layered Champagne. This is one of the more open Extra Brut Champagnes readers will come across, likely because of the high presence of 2005 juice and full malolactic fermentation. Technical details aside, the wine is flat out delicious. 91 points”

NV Pascal Doquet Premiers Crus Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Sparkling; Champagne Blend; Champagne; $54.98

Michel-Andreotti Montagny les Guignottes White Burgundy. Honestly, we don’t really have to say much more than that. It is special wine. Unfortunately, supply and demand do what they do, and a great amount of it is priced in the ‘special wine’ echelon. Well, David’s trips to Burgundy have paid off yet again, as we are now importing the Montagny “Les Guignottes” from Michel-Andreotti. From the slightly off-the-beaten-path appellation of Montagny in Côte Chalonnaise, “Les Guignottes” outperforms its price point by far and reminds us that there is good White Burgundy out there for a fair price. First came the 2010. It’s an understatement to say that it sold out quickly. Then along came the 2011, it sold out too, but we just re-loaded and it’s back in stock. Which one made our Top Ten of 2012? It’s a dead heat. They both belong!

2011 Domaine Michel-Andreotti Montagny Les Guignottes White Wine; Chardonnay; Burgundy; $19.99

2011 Juicy Villages From Juicy Rebound Now for some local representation. You’ve got to love old-vine Mourvèdre. It’s rare to find a blend from California that showcases the grape in the leading role. Winemaker and hockey fanatic Douglas Danielak took 120+ year old Mourvèdre from the Evanghelo Vineyard in Contra Costa where the vines look like “little trees” and blended it with Syrah and Grenache to create a mouth-filling berry bomb bestowing it with the catchy name, Juicy Villages. There’s plenty of grip and tang to give Juicy Villages a well-balanced flavor experience. A whopping 100 cases were produced of this unique and delicious Côtes du Rhône-esque red. All that for a price that’s more than fair on your pocketbook. Bravo!

2011 Juicy Rebound Juicy Villages California Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Other California; $19.98

2009 Domaine Martin Bart Marsannay 2012 was the year of containers. It seemed all throughout the year, we were simultaneously in the process of consolidating one overseas, anticipating the arrival of the one already on the water, and unloading the container at our dock! That just means we found lots of goodies on our trips overseas. The 2009 vintage was a phenomenal one in France (more on that later), and we tasted a lot of great wines that now have “Imported by Wine House Limited” on their labels.So 2009 was great in Burgundy, especially for the red wines. So again, we’re sure the top names of the region produced formidable wines, but we like to kick tires and look under rocks to find value! David is on a roll bringing some amazing, new-for-us, high-quality producers to join TWH family! Another feather in his cap in 2012 were the wines from Domaine Bart in Marsannay. Their Les Champs Salomon was a home run of a Red Burgundy. It smelled fancy. It tasted fancy. Its price tag? Not so fancy. That all explains its sold out status. Welcome to TWH top 10, Domaine Bart!

Ravan From Kabaj We’ve got our eyes open for great wines from all corners of the wine world. Like Slovenia. Wines from Slovenia are catching favor with consumers and critics alike, popping up on restaurant wine lists and profiled in thoughtful wine publications. Just one whiff, just one taste was enough for us to throw caution to the wind and stack the Ravan from Kabaj high and proud. Were we concerned whether TWH customers would shy away from an unknown producer from an unfamiliar wine region? Not. The staff were all in for sure, but when a wine is this delightful, exotic and complex, we knew our adventurous clientele would embrace the Ravan from Kabaj just as passionately. The 2009 has sold out, but we find the 2010 a worthy successor!

2010 Kabaj Ravan White Wine Goriska Brda White Wine; other white varietal; Slovenia; $19.98

2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Tour de l’Isle Imagine attending a traveling French wine trade show in Chicago in the middle of January … brrrrr! Seriously, at some point you have to ask yourself why? Well, part of our service to you all is to indeed kick tires, look under rocks, kiss some toads, and every now and then, we get lucky. Here goes your proof. Last January David braved the elements and flew into 6 degree Farenheit Chi-town. He met a lot of people and tasted a lot of wine. When he met the folks representing the Tour de l’Isle brand, he was gaga over their Châteauneuf-du-Pape! A sample bottle was shipped to the shop the following week, and now we all sing the praises of this rich, powerful (yet friendly), stone mineral driven, Grenachey Grenache! The 2009 was already in the US, courtesy of another importer. Well, we all love it so much that we made ‘em an offer they couldn’t refuse. We bought their entire stock and are now the proud importer of their wines! Boo Yah!

2009 Tour de l’Isle Chateauneuf-du-Pape Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Rhone; $34.99

2009 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon One of the advantages, and pleasures, of being in business for over 35 years (!) is the long-standing relationships we’ve forged with both customers and vendors. One of David’s first discoveries working at The Wine House was the debut vintage of Spottswoode’s estate grown 1982 Cabernet Sauvignon. The Wine House has been proudly offering their Cabernet Sauvignon every vintage thereafter. The 2009 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon is a standout among a very long line of outstanding efforts; it has that unmistakable thread of Spottsberry fruit pushing through with the signature silky tannins wrapping around it. It is a true collectable California Cabernet and we are happy and proud to include this monumental effort among our Top Ten Wines of the year!

2009 Spottswoode Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Napa Valley Red Wine; Cabernet Sauvignon; Napa; $144.98

2011 Gavi di Gavi We’ve been directly importing the Ernesto Picollo line of Gavi wines for 5 vintages now, and though we have always felt they smash the quality for price ratio, their 2011 Gavi di Gavi Rovereto has that extra umph that propels it into 2012′s Top Ten! Anya swears that it is the fact that Picollo’s top cuvée Rughe wasn’t made this year, so that special older-vine fruit made its way into the Rovereto. Whatever it was, there’s no denying the quality of this wine. Crisp, mineral driven, and precise, you would swear that the bottle cost would be twice or even three times as much as it is! It is that special. It’s very likely THE best white wine deal in the house!

2011 Picollo Ernesto Gavi di Gavi Roverto White Wine; other white varietal; Piedmont; $15.99

2001 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial Chances are if you’ve been in our shop in the latter part of 2012, and perhaps overheard a customer request for a “special wine” or a “gift wine”, you would have heard a member of TWH staff gush over the merits of the 2001 Reserva Especial Rioja Viña Ardanza by La Rioja Alta. Whew, that’s a mouthful; but so is the wine! This well known Rioja producer has only thought it appropriate to make this special bottling in two other vintages: 1964 and 1973! Space limitations will keep us from gushing too much over this in writing, but let’s just say that if it were twice the price, it would still be a bargain. With 11 years of age, it can be enjoyed anytime from now until your 3 year old graduates from college … and then some!

2001 La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva Especial Rioja Red Wine; Red Blend; Rioja; $29.98

Bet you didn’t see this one coming. Of course it had to be a 2009 Bordeaux. I only wrote about this vintage and its wines umpteen times. But which one? Seriously, this was the toughest point of this exercise. But when you take everything into consideration, we’ve got to give the big tip of the cap to the 2009 Château Larrivaux, Haut-Médoc. I loved it out of barrel. Then, when the first 2009′s arrived in early 2012, it was on the first container. Chris and I grabbed a few of the new arrivals and taste tested them. His overwhelming favorite of the bunch was the Larrivaux. We opened another bottle the following week for Anya, Tom, and David to taste, and it was unanimous! Now that everyone was on board, we went back to the marketplace and loaded up. It is certainly not the only success story from the 2009 vintage, but that kind of quality for less than $25 resonates big time! Ignore at your own peril.

2009 Chateau Larrivaux Haut Medoc Red Wine; Bordeaux Blend; Bordeaux; $23.98

So there you have it, our Top Ten Wines of 2012! We’ve already begun tasting new wines in the new year, and we’re taking good notes, so we’ll have plenty of candidates for this list this time next year! Wishing you all the best in 2013! – Anya Balistreri & Peter Zavialoff

2010 Chateau Couronneau: The One!

The 2010 Couronneau arrived just in the nick of time as our inventory of the 2009 had dwindled down to just bottles. I thought the 2009 Couronneau was the best wine from Chateau Couronneau I had ever tasted. It’s tricky to make such a statement about a wine because, well, there’s always a next vintage. Among the staff, I freely pronounced my admiration for the ’09, always noting it was the “best ever”. Peter never disputed my claim, but would only say, “wait till you try the 2010″. I trust and know that Peter knows Bordeaux, but my understanding of the vintages is that ’09s are more expressive and drinkable at this early stage, while ’10s are more structured and less outgoing in the fruit department. So why was Peter implying that the 2010 Couronneau was so special? I now know why…the 2010 has amplitude and a brash richness to it that defies its humble Bordeaux Superieur classification. The 2010 Couronneau is dense with plum and tangy cassis fruit, the tannins and acidity are heightened and bring forth a freshness on the palate for all that rich fruit. I don’t know what is happening but I am again smitten with a young Bordeaux.   The Piat family, the proprietors of Chateau Couronneau, have worked hard and meticulously in the vineyard to coax out the best possible fruit for their wine. This hard work includes a dedication to organic farming (they are certified with Ecocert), green harvesting in Spring, and limiting yields to an average well below what is allowed for the appellation (their average is around 35HL/HA when 65HL/HA is allowable). Christophe Piat’s foremost motivation is to make the best quality wine possible. His achievements in the vineyard, and subsequently in the cellar, have not gone unnoticed. He has been regaled with many medals for his wines in France and Chateau Couronneau has been noted for quality and value in multiple wine publications worldwide. Rightly so, Christophe is quite proud of his estates’ medal showings in wine competitions. You can debate the efficacy of organic farming and other such viticultural practices, but the proof is in the pudding so to speak, and I have witnessed, and tasted, the steep trajectory of rising quality from this estate over the past decade. With every vintage, Chateau Couronneau rolls out beautiful, complex, totally satisfying wine. Wait till YOU try it!

 

 

This past Thursday, The Wine House along with Chateau Coutet hosted a dinner at Picco in Larkspur, pairing Sauternes with each course. This is the third time our Peter and Aline Baly from Chateau Coutet have teamed up to prove that pairing Sauternes with savory courses is not just a gimmick but is in fact an exciting way to broaden your culinary experience. I missed out on the previous dinners, and I have to say, I was getting a little annoyed and rather tired of hearing how great this dish was with that vintage, and how this attendee brought an ancient vintage to share and yadda-yadda-yadda. It’s 2013, a new year, so I decided to use birthday money I had squirreled away to treat myself to this third Coutet dinner. (I also knew they were planning to unveil the inaugural vintage of Chateau Coutet’s first dry white, the 2010 Opalie de Coutet – boy, was that fantastic!). I expected to like the pairing of Coutet with savory dishes, I really did. What was surprising to me though was how effortlessly the wines paired with the savory. The pairings were not at all strange or a culinary stretch. And I didn’t miss having it paired with fois gras. The real stand-out pairings were not with the dessert courses, as is when one typically thinks to break out a bottle of Sauternes. A raw oyster with a chile-cilantro mignonette was paired with the youthful and exuberant 2008 Coutet for a crazy good match of heat, sweet and briny. Another memorable bite was the opulent 2010 Coutet served with crab linguine accented with Korean chili flake. The sweetness of the crab came through brilliantly and the pineapple notes of the young 2010 tempered the heat of the chile flake gloriously. It was a spectacular evening all around with great company, food, wine and atmosphere. I really do need to drink more Sauternes, preferably Chateau Coutet. –Anya Balistreri

2010 Lacuna: A Passion Project

As anyone who has visited our store over the last couple weeks can attest to, it’s cold in here, baby! And looking over a map of current US temperatures, it appears to be cold everywhere. Nothing like a simmering pot on the stove and a bottle of rugged red to cozy up to on days like these. My rugged red of choice for January’s chill is the 2010 Lacuna. Many of you probably remember the 2007 Lacuna, which made our Top Ten of 2010 list, and was easily one of the best-valued Syrahs from the vintage. Now along comes the 2010 which in composition and flavor profile is completely different from the 2007 but shares the same over-delivered quality to price ratio. Again as with the 2007, the 2010 Lacuna offers much more than the $24.98 price tag would suggest when compared to the general market. The partnership that began Lacuna is intact though one tactical addition has been made and that is to hire on winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson from Bedrock Wine Company permanently. A wise, shrewd move boys! It’s not just Morgan’s skill as a winemaker that is so crucial to the success of Lacuna, but his sleuthhound skills at seeking out interesting, and often under-appreciated, old vineyards to source the fruit is key. The team at Lacuna all share a common vision and that is to make wine that is layered, revealing, and able to evolve. The 2010 Lacuna is comprised of 58% Syrah and 42% Petite Sirah. The Syrah comes from two sites: one planted to the Alban clone that gives off a smokey, meaty flavor and the other a windy spot that adds a component of blueberry and violets to offset the broodiness of the former. The Petite Sirah comes from a single ancient vineyard that was originally planted well over a century ago. The Petite Sirah is not the dominant component in this splendid-blended, but it certainly provides the surprise element and the overall framework for the wine. It is an established fact that while Wine House customers may favor wines with a European twist, they also gravitate towards the robustness of Petite Sirah. I have tasted the 2010 Lacuna over the course of a year now and I have been pleased at how the wine is developing in bottle. I can only surmise that it is the Petite Sirah which is doing a lot of the changing. Early on the wine was grippy and tight-fisted. Now the structure has expanded and the aromatics and fruit of the Syrah are taking center stage. There are fascinating, contrasting forces at play with the 2010 Lacuna, between the polish of the Syrah and the ruggedness of the Petite Sirah…just when you think that the smokey, blueberry fruit needs to kick into low gear, the Petite Sirah begins to rumble down the palate. Wow!

It is my belief that micro-sized wineries, like Lacuna and Juicy Rebound, who essentially make wine for themselves, to not only be the source for California’s best wine values, but also the most interesting and plain ole’ tastiest wines. There is heart and passion in the making of these wines that directly translates into the bottle.

On the Twelfth Day of Christmas my true love gave to me…a beautiful, big brown-eyed girl! The gift that keeps on giving is turning nine and with that, our celebrating has neither ceased nor waned. The family is getting together once again for a traditional Russian Christmas Eve dinner. Champagne will be served and (shhh) maybe a shot or two of vodka, but then when life goes back to the old routine, I hope to be at the stove making something warm and soothing and I’ll be testing out my theory that the 2010 Lacuna is the wine to reach for during the cold days of winter. Happy New Year everyone! –Anya Balistreri

Pernot Belicard: 2010 Meursault

 

m-m-m-Meursault!!! The 2010 Meursault from Pernot Belicard is textbook Meursault, in my opinion. It has ripe peach fruit, a lemon citrus kick and a note of hazelnut on the finish that parlays into a super long honey aftertaste. Village-level Meursault is often faulted for being fat and anonymous, this Meursault from Pernot Belicard is quite the contrary. It has acidity and brightness tangled in with the fruit and it is big on personality. In our effort to scout out a broader selection of affordable quality Burgundy, Pernot Belicard became an obvious choice for TWH to import – which happened in short order soon after David visited them in the early part of 2012. The wines come with impeccable pedigree; winemaker Philippe Pernot is the grandson of our beloved Paul Pernot of Puligny Montrachet. Philippe has worked for his grandfather for several harvests, but has now branched out on his own having the further good fortune of marrying into the Belicard family, a family of wine growers. Philippe has 5 hectares of vines in 9 different climats. The grapes for his village Meursault come from a single parcel of 65-70 year old vines in the lieu dit, or named vineyard, of Les Pelles Dessus. In the cellar, Philippe likes to use 4 different barrel coopers, finding favor in the variety of flavors that they bring to his wines. His barrels are all low toast. I point this out, well, because David had written this down in his tasting notes and it explains the light touch of oak present in his wines, especially the 2010 Meursault.

Much has been mentioned of my declaration that if I could, I would drink white Burgundy everyday. I am not distancing myself from that statement but let’s face it, I’m not in a position (yet) to afford it. The idea of white Burgundy evokes a luxuriousness for me that equates with fine dining in elegant surroundings. At $49.99 per bottle ($42.49 by the case) – with the 2010 Meursault from Pernot Belicard, affordable luxury can be attainable. The other night, my Italian-American mother-in-law reminisced about the Feast of the Seven Fishes in her youth. Most of her relatives were fisherman and at Christmas Eve the table was laden with crab, prawns, calamari, etc. Growing up in my Russian-American household, Christmas Eve dinner was also meatless, but the entrée was fish kotleti, aka fishburgers, with a mushroom sauce. What I wouldn’t do for a glass of nutty golden-hued Meursault to wash down those kotleti!

The other day I asked my daughter if she considered her behavior in general as Naughty or Nice, and whether she thought Santa Claus would be bringing her presents this year. Without hesitation she told me that she was fairly certain she had been better behaved this year than last and since Santa Claus did come last year, she’s pretty sure he’ll show up this year too. Now how can you argue with logic like that?!! To all of you, my sincerest wishes for a peaceful, laughter-filled and joyous Holiday Season, preferably all served up with a tasty glass of wine! –Anya Balistreri

Macedon: 2010 Pinot Noir

When discussing the lives of us kids and the choices we’ve made, my Auntie Jo will conclude by saying, “different…just different.” So if you’re someone who believes different can be good, well then, have I got a wine for you – a Pinot Noir from Macedonia! Landlocked Macedonia has an ancient viticultural history. The mountainous country is hot, with ample winds making it ideal for grape growing. The 2010 Macedon Pinot Noir comes from Gradsko in the Tikves Wine region, which experiences the confluence of a rugged mountainous climate with the winds from the Aegean Sea, yielding an area with virtually no rain and ample wind, or so I am told. Actually, a handy little tech sheet about the wine was provided for me, but I soon discovered it contained some faulty information. A bit of online research left me frustrated and no better informed. To remedy this, Pete suggested taking a field trip over there. The perfect solution, you clever man! Anyway, the 2010 Macedon came to us via a small importer of mostly limited-production Italian wines. It was through one of their producers, Slovenian cult winemaker Edi Simcic that this modern Macedonian winery came to their attention. A collaboration between them begat Macedon, an un-oaked Pinot Noir from 40 plus year old vines. Like another popular entry in the Pinot Noir from Other Parts, the 2008 Avitus, the 2010 Macedon is fresh and lively with red berry and strawberry fruit flavors that hint at moist earth on the palate. The lack of oak barreling creates a fruity red that is light on its feet with a sheerness that highlights the magical opaque quality of Pinot Noir. The 2010 Macedon is a light and pretty Pinot Noir for which salmon and fowl are called for on the plate.

At TWH it’s beginning to look at lot like…Champagne time! Ah yes, my favorite time of year. The panic and anxiety of end of year craziness hasn’t yet hit me; I’m still in full denial of the many obligations and expectations I have yet to fulfill. I already know that I’ll be doing the majority of my gift-giving shopping here at TWH, and fortunately we have wines priced at all levels so whether I need a bottle of something good and affordable for the guys at the auto shop, something unique and quirky for my daughter’s art teacher who has taught her to know to add more texture to her snowman or a bottle with cache and aging-potential for the label-conscious wine-collector, I know I’m covered. I probably have mentioned this before, and it is worth noting again especially this time of year, that we do carry many domestic wines that have limited availability and therefore rarely make it to print. I have listed an Addendum below with such notables. Please keep in mind that these wines are indeed limited.

HOLIDAY HOURS UPDATE: As a convenience to those who are not able to visit our store during normal business hours (and for those who just like to hang out with us) we will be open two Sundays, December 16th and 23rd, from noon to 4pm. –Anya Balistreri

Spottswoode’s 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon

 

As we cruise into Week Two of our 35th Anniversary Sale my nostalgic nature prods me to contemplate about the wineries that have been with The Wine House since the early years. Napa Valley’s Spottswoode Winery produced its first estate bottled wine in 1982 and was sold at The Wine House. Spottswoode quickly became a favorite. David had stumbled upon them while searching out new California wines, asking around as to where to taste and Spottswoode’s first winemaker’s name, Tony Soter, popped up. The story of Spottswoode Winery is a compelling and inspirational one that captures the innovative spirit of the Valley’s early beginnings. In 1972, Dr. Jack and Mary Novak purchased a historic 31-acre estate and moved their family of five children to live a more rural life. They planned on making wine, but Jack’s unexpected death in 1977, left Mary in the seemingly impossible position of running a farm, starting a winery and raising five children on her own. Mary wouldn’t give up on the dream she shared with her husband and pushed forward. Now realize this was in the 70′s and though the Napa Valley was beginning to be recognized for making world-class wines, there still were but 400 wineries in the state as compared to over 3000 today. In other words, there were no guarantees that this was going to work out well. Fast-forward 30 years and what you have now is a prestigious winery with a proven track record of making impeccable, classy, note-worthy Cabernet Sauvignons. The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is the latest release and is redolent of cassis, silky plum and perfumed aromatics. Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignons exemplify the elegant, balanced potential of Napa Cabernets.

 

Today, two of Mary’s daughters work for the winery and are the driving force behind the winery’s continued success. I have the pleasure of working with Lindy Novak who makes it a point to come visit our store regularly and taste our staff on new releases. This may seem commonplace, but it isn’t, especially for a winery that must allocate their wine. My sense is that they do this because 1) they know it is important for those who sell their wine to know what it tastes like (duh!?!), 2) they enjoy the connections and relationships they’ve made over the years and this is a way to “check-in” and “catch up”, and 3) they are confident in the quality of their wine and are unafraid to talk candidly about the vintage variations. I’ve had two occasions to taste the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon; once at the store and another time at a grand tasting celebrating Spottswoode’s 30th Anniversary where the Novak family was in attendance making what could have been a stuffy event into a family affair. The Novaks are gracious people. I took notes, I was probably the only one doing so, but I wasn’t going to squander my opportunity tasting ’91, ’94, ’02 and ’09 side-by-side. Each vintage had a familiar berry note for which I have coined the term Spottsberry to describe. It’s a bright berry but enveloped with cedar and tangy acidity. At The Wine House I’ve positioned myself as the Queen of Bargains (after all I drive a 10-year old American automobile), but rest assured I can recognize value whether you are looking for a mid-week quaffer or are looking to drink only the Best of the Best. Spottswoode Winery is my pick for consistently outstanding Estate grown Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Just read the glowing reviews from two of the most influential wine critics (see below), for more tasting notes.

 

My Thanksgiving Day meal had an international flair to it as there were friends and family from Siberia, Germany and Africa all seated around my sister’s gargantuan dining table partaking in the feast. Everything was delicious, but the highlights were a mushroom sauté of locally foraged porcini mushrooms executed by my 17-year old niece (thumbs up TasTas!) and the succulent, juicy smoked turkey my 18-year old nephew made (great job D-Money!). It’s so wonderful to see the next generation stepping up and carrying on with the culinary traditions. So much to be thankful for! –Anya Balistreri “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is a huge wine bursting with class and personality. It shows gorgeous delineation in its dark fruit, camphor, tar and licorice, with striking finesse and breathtaking balance. All of the aromas and flavors build effortlessly to the round, sensual finish. Despite its size, the 2009 is a relatively accessible wine, especially when tasted next to the 2008. This is a dazzling effort and easily one of the wines of the vintage. Wow. In 2009 the Cabernet Sauvignon includes 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.” Wine Advocate 96+ points “Full ruby-red. Cassis, dark chocolate and violet on the lively nose. Seamless and lush in the style of the year, showing the roundness and finesse of the best Spottswoode vintages. Finishes with toothcoating sweet tannins and a complete absence of rough edges. This doesn’t show the tannic mass of the more backward and powerful 2008 but it’s suaver and has plenty of structure for a graceful evolution in bottle.” Steven Tanzer 94 points.

Miro’s Cellars Floodgate Vineyard Pinot Noir

I am not exactly sure why a single-vineyard, 200 case production, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir would be offered for under $25 when Pinot Noir from the same exact vineyard, Floodgate Vineyard, can command bottle prices twice as much. Floodgate Vineyard, at the southern end of the Russian River Valley in an area known as the “Middle Reach”, was first planted decades ago and has been the source for numerous award-winning wines. I suppose the reason why winemaker/proprietor Miro Tcholakov offers this lovely, jubilant cherry-infused Pinot Noir at the low, low price of $22.98 (at The Wine House) is because he can. I have not personally met him (yet), but I’m going to go out on the limb here and conclude that Miro is probably a bit of a rebel who bucks convention to make wines that outperform expectations given their modest sticker price. We get inundated with wholesale books, dropped off regularly by hopeful wine salespeople. Time allowing, I will peruse the pages, hoping to find a gem among the crowded field. When I came across Miro’s Cellars in a small boutique portfolio, I thought the prices listed were a typo. I quickly emailed my rep and asked to taste the wines…only after confirming that the prices were indeed correct. I tasted the Floodgate Pinot Noir with Tom who when asked what he thought of it said something to the effect of “what are you waiting for?” Yeah, really, how often am I going to find a balanced, approachable, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from a famed vineyard for $22.98? Not nearly often enough; back up the truck!

Miro Tcholakov, a Bulgarian native, came to the U.S. on a student exchange program offered through the Future Farmers of America. He landed in Napa and quickly thereafter came to Dry Creek Vineyards where he worked up the ladder from harvest intern to winemaker. Now that is an American success story. These days he is winemaker for Trentadue Winery in Alexander Valley and as a side gig, makes wines for himself under Miro’s Cellars. Everything I’ve tasted from Miro to date has been wonderful and along with the Floodgate Vineyard Pinot Noir, we are carrying a Grist Vineyard Zinfandel and a GSM blend called “Cuvee Sasha”. Most of what I am sharing with you is information gathered from the Miro’s Cellar website where I found it revealing and refreshing that to read about Mr. Tcholakov, you have to scroll down to the very bottom of the homepage and click on a link. Obviously he is a modest winemaker who wants his wines to take center stage. Miro’s 2010 Floodgate Vineyard Pinot Noir is indicative of the intense cherry fruit you look for in Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Though relatively low in alcohol, labeled at 13.5%, for a red from this area, and with time in new oak, about 11 months, this Pinot Noir is expressive of place and is reigned in nicely. It’s a wine to consider for the Thanksgiving table or to bring along to your next dinner party.

The warehouse has been reloaded with a container from France. We’ll be unveiling the new arrivals in upcoming newsletters and once pallets have been broken down and wine counted in, many of you will soon be getting emails for wines purchased on pre-arrival. I’ve been having a major clean-up at home as I no longer can take refuge from the mess by staying outside. I made my first pot of stew of the season and have been on a roasted vegetable kick. Have you tried roasting Brussels Sprouts? My daughter scoffs them down! She told me the other night as she stabbed the tiny cruciferous morsel, “Do you know that some kids at school think these are yucky? I don’t…I love them!” Put that in the win column for mom. –Anya Balistreri

2011 Juicy Villages from Juicy Rebound

The 2011 Juicy Villages from Juicy Rebound is fun, delicious, and quite a remarkable wine value when you consider the quality of grapes that go into the blend. Winemaker Douglas Danielak took 120+ year old Mourvedre from the famed Evanghelo Vineyard in Contra Costa County and added a bit of Sonoma County Syrah and Grenache for the Southern Rhone-inspired Juicy Villages. You would think that fruit from any one of these sources would command a higher price tag, but Douglas was looking to make an entry-level or villages level, if you would, wine that could be enjoyed immediately. As is so often the case, Douglas Danielak is not only a winemaker who we have been following for many, many years starting with his pioneering years at Jade Mountain and then at White Rock and now with Paras Vineyards, but is a customer of The Wine House, having a penchant for French wines. Currently, Douglas makes wine for a number of micro-boutique wineries. It is only recently that he has started his own labels, Juicy Rebound and Pont Neuf, with his wife Mary. Douglas’ hobbies extend beyond wine; he is an avid fan of hockey and also plays in local leagues. This seems incongruous to his friendly demeanor and encyclopedic knowledge of wine. When Douglas came by the store last, we got on the subject of premature oxidation in White Burgundy. Douglas gave a quick lecture citing several theories, explaining them in easy-to-understand language, quoting sources from the many French winemakers he personally knows and visits frequently. This AND the fact that he makes fabulous wines and can skate on ice while swinging a stick at a fast moving puck, is impressive, I’d say.

The 2011 Juicy Villages, though approachable and well… JUICY, is not devoid of that dark brooding fruit you’d expect of a wine dominated by Mourvedre. The Mourvedre from Evanghelo Vineyard, which was planted in 1880, grows in sand. Yes, sand. I’ve included a photo, courtesy of Douglas, that puts this fact into vivid view. This sand bank was created where the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers merge. The vines are all head-pruned, non-irrigated and on their original rootstock – Douglas calls them “little trees”. All this contributes to lush aromatics, beautiful violet aromas and tangy acidity. Douglas has worked with fruit from Evanghelo Vineyard for 20 years. You can tell how special Evanghelo is to Douglas not only by the deliciousness of the finished wine but by how intimately he describes this unique vineyard site. A strong connection between winemaker and vineyard makes for very interesting wine. The Syrah and Grenache are not afterthoughts but rather intentional components that add richness and sweet fruit. The 2011 Juicy Villages is an example of the exciting and noteworthy wines being made in California that buck the trend of massive, oaky, Cab-centric reds at a budget-friendly price. –Anya Balistreri