Elegance In A Glass – 2006 Chateau Maltroye Red Burgundy

As spring heats up and moves into full swing (Wow, is it baseball season already?), we are reminded that the days will get longer and warmer. In anticipation of the upcoming balmy days and nights, it is recommended that we go a little easier on our full-bodied red wines in exchange for reds long on texture, elegance, and character, yet short on grip and tannin. You know, something that doesn’t need a hearty feast to allow it to shine.One section of our shop that is chock-full of the type of wine we’re talking about here is the Red Burgundy section. We know. Red Burgundy? Aren’t they expensive? Sometimes they can be, but alas, here is where we can help you.

For this email, we’d like to shine a spotlight on an off the radar Red Burg producer, Chateau de la Maltroye. With 13 hectares of vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, one would assume the wines to all be Chardonnay. Au contraire nous amis. Almost half is planted to Pinot Noir, and thanks to his meticulous nature, Jean-Pierre Cornut has been producing elegant terroir-driven Red Burgundy for many vintages. Cornut both green harvests and de-stems his fruit to give the wines richness, complexity, and a sense of place. We recently tasted through three of his 2006 red releases, and found them to be not only outstanding, but great deals too! If that’s not enough, through April 17th, you can take 25% off (mix and match is okay) case quantities of the 2006 red wines from Chateau Maltroye! Now there’s a sweet deal!

Tasting Notes:
Santenay, La Comme– Tasted first. The aroma was, in a word, lovely. A super-friendly combo of berry fruit and earth makes one think this wine is ready to go, and on the palate, it is. Medium light in weight, this is exactly the kind of wine we’re talking about here: accessible, balanced, speaks of a place, and finishes with a delicate touch. Ready now, though could last medium term cellaring.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos St. Jean
– Of the two Chassagne wines, this one is usually accessible first. Clive Coates, MWhad this to say, “Red Clos Saint Jean can be rich, full, juicy, and most enjoyable.” We agree. This wine was a little higher toned on the nose, yet still reveals itself as a delicate balance of Pinot Noir fruit with rich minerals on the palate. It’s got a little more stuffing than the Santenay, but is just as accessible. Will keep through medium term aging.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos du Chateau
– This one is a little more focused and serious. The fruit is deeper and darker, the minerality and spice are profound. This is one for the Burgundy connoisseur. It has more structure than the other two, and will certainly benefit from medium to lengthy cellaring. With decanting, that underlying fruit opens up pinging your flavor sensors nicely, finishing with an earthy, blue fruit balance braced by chewy tannins. – Peter Zavialoff

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Filed under Burgundy, Cote du Beaune, French Wine, Peter Zavialoff

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