Tasting the 2008’s just after the ’09s at Lamarche this past January was a revelation. When looking back at my notes from a year earlier, I noted the same beautiful core of fruit, but in their year of elevage, every single wine had gained in precision and focus, like re-watching an old movie in high-def.
2008 is turning out to be quite a beautiful vintage at Lamarche, from the lovely, lighter-bodied yet strikingly scented Hautes Côtes de Nuits all the way up to the big daddy, La Grande Rue. It was a vintage that didn’t show all its stuff early, probably due to the long, slow malolactic fermentations.
The Vosne Suchots is a case in point. Last year, it was in a slightly reductive state, stunting the bouquet some, and making the finish a little rough, but now, it’s just singing, with all that gorgeous fragrance the vineyard is known for and a nice fleshy middle. As always, the Nuits Les Cras has more of an animal, black fruit character, completely different from the elegant cherry spice of the Vosnes. Among the Grand Cru wines, the Echézeaux shows rich red fruit and spice, while the Clos Vougeot is a wine of more power and structure. This is a particularly strong lineup, and further evidence that 2008, at the top addresses, is a compelling vintage for red Burgundy. – David Netzer