2005 Biferno Rosso from Borgo di Colloredo

Dark and smoldering indeed. The 2005 Biferno DOC from Borgo di Colloredo is predominantly Montepulciano with a fifth Aglianico. Biferno is one of only three DOCs in Molise, a region that lies north of Italy’s heel, Puglia, and has both mountainous and marine terrain. Borgo di Colloredo is situated in Campomarino near the Adriatic. Enrico di Guilio who has the reputation for being a perfectionist runs the winery. I’ve not had the pleasure of meeting him, but I’ve known and followed his wines for many years now. Just last month we included his 2010 Malvasia in the Dirty Dozen (it sold out for a while but more has arrived!) and we’ve stocked his Biferno for the last four years. The Biferno’s appeal rests on its dark, leathery fruit profile and its unmatched price to quality ratio. Molise is practically an unknown wine region and as such wines from here do not command as high a price as say a wine from Piedmonte of comparable quality would. You get a whole lotta wine for the money with a bottle of Borgo di Colloredo’s Biferno. The 2005 is their most recent release; this is remarkable considering it is not a “reserve” bottling. Enrico is known to release wines when he feels they are ready. The ’05 is still a young puppy and does not taste at all like a wine that is 6+ years old. In fact, I would suggest decanting it if you want to get underneath all those layers of fruit and get to the licorice spice and distinct notes of saddle leather. The tannins are rich and robust but are in harmony with the ripe plum/black cherry flavors. If you are craving a dark chewy red that you can almost sink your teeth into, look no further.

I’m in a bit of a rush here as I’m writing this a day early so that I can take Saturday off to watch my daughter dance at her ballet recital. This is likely going to be my only opportunity to watch her twirl around on stage as she has made it abundantly clear that she HATES ballet. I can’t begin to express how crushed I feel about this; my dreams of being a stage mother are sadly fading. A year of ballet lessons, a year of full on meltdowns-but she/we stuck it out and now I get my 3 minutes of delight. No one ever said this was going to be easy…too true!Anya Balistreri

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