Auxey-Duresses From Domaine Lafouge

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the last few years, David’s prospecting trips to Burgundy have been quite fruitful. One by one, we’ve added the likes of Domaine Michel Bouzereau et filsDomaine Sainte BarbeSylvain LangoureauDomaine BartMichel-AndreottiGabriel Billard and Claudie Jobard, Genot-Boulanger, and Stephane Magnien to our roster of producers from that magical strip of land between Dijon and Lyon. And when you’re talking about producers that stay true to their craft, make excellent wine, and keep their pricing somewhat fair, there’s always room for more! Well, we’re happy to report that joining our stable this year are the wines from Domaine Lafouge in Auxey-Duresses.
Auxey-Duresses is a valley that juts west in between Volnay and Meursault. Both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are planted here, the former on the slope adjacent to Meursault, the latter on the Volnay side. Historically known for producing lower-priced table wines, modern innovation has upped the quality level here, as the wines resemble those of their prestigious neighbors. Auxey’s microclimate is cooler than its neighbors, and the wines generally have healthy acid levels and old school charm.

 

Gilles Lafouge is the 6th generation vigneron of a property that can trace its lineage back to the 17th century. What he makes is traditional, honest Burgundy. He de-stems all of his fruit and employs both hand harvesting and hand sorting. It may be interesting to note that his sister is the wife of TWH Meursault producer, Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau. Both Lafouge’s Chardonnay vineyards border Meursault, and he only uses 20% new barrel for his whites. Les Boutonniers is the more Meursault-like of the two with round, fleshy fruit aromas and flavors. It’s complex, yet balanced, with a hint of that Meursault softness. The fruit for Gilles’ Les Hautés comes from the upper slope of the all-limestone vineyard. The wine is sleek and zippy with plenty of chalky mineral framework. For his 2010 Village Auxey-Duresses, Lafouge used less than 20% new barrel and the wine is an absolute charmer. It’s good, honest, old-school Red Burgundy. The aromas are of cherries and savory berries with traces of herbs and earth. It has a rustic charm on the palate, with a light body and fresh finish. His 2010 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Les Duresses has a little more oomph to it. The oak regimen is a little more than 20%, but the structure of the wine is able to work with the barrel, and the result is a complex, medium bodied, honest Burgundy that will bring pleasure today, but will drink well over the next 10 years and beyond. Note: the alcohol level on all 4 wines is 13%.

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Filed under Auxey-Duresses, Peter Zavialoff, Pinot Noir

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