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2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Vigne Blanche
Château de la Maltroye
Château de la Maltroye dates back to 1940 when the Burgundian property was purchased by current owner/winemaker Jean-Pierre Cornut’s grandfather. Jean-Pierre’s father, André worked at the château for 20 years before handing the reins to his son in 1993. Their holdings consist of 15 hectares planted to both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Premier Cru Morgeot Vigne Blanche vineyard lies in the southern part of Chassagne, along a contiguous belt of Premier Cru vineyards that wind down in a southerly direction from the château. Jean-Pierre admits that the quality of his 2013s was “a huge surprise”, as the cold, damp spring was a challenge for many growers. Though yields were lower than average, Jean-Pierre went on to say that his 2013s are, “very floral and elegant and I’m not sure that even 2010 was as transparent to the underlying terroir as is 2013.” The aromas are of citrus and spice with a floral overtone. The palate is powerful and concentrated, yet well balanced. A cellar selection, this will be at its best from 2020 to 2030.
2013 Fixin-Hervelets 1er Cru
Martin Bart and his nephew Pierre run this 22 hectare estate which has holdings in some prime vineyards in the northern Côte de Nuits. Of Fixin’s five main Premier Cru vineyards, three of them are monopoles, the other two, Les Arvelets and Les Hervelets are not. Wines that come from Les Arvelets can be bottled as Les Hervelets, but not vice-versa. This wine comes from a 1.5 hectare parcel that is literally split 50/50 between them. These two vineyards lie just north of the other Premier Crus on a gentle slope which is less rocky. The wines from these two vineyards have a reputation for being fine and elegant. Though in 2013, the wine bears a strong resemblance to a top-notch Premier Cru from Gevrey-Chambertain. Bart compares the 2013 vintage to the 2012, citing lower than average production, yet of excellent quality. The elegant bouquet is alive with violets and purple berries with a distinct earthy mineral framework. The palate is fairly sturdy with a round middle exhibiting the expressive fruit with its earthiness and a hint of rusticity. The finish is balanced and focused. This should hit its window starting in 2021 and last well over a decade. – Peter Zavialoff