Corbieres is one of the largest AOCs of the Languedoc, and suffered a bad reputation for many years for its insipid, high yielding juice that primarily slaked the thirst of northern France. However, many committed growers have begun to revise that reputation by respecting their one truly special raw material: old vine Carignan. Throughout the 1980s, growers around the Languedoc were offered governmental stimulus to rip out their Carignan in favor of Grenache and Syrah. You see, Carignan itself suffered (and to a certain extent, continues to suffer) a bad rap as a high-yielding trash grape. The locals often refer to it as “La Pisseuse” (I’ll let you translate that for yourself), due to its ability to emit copious amounts of juice. And yes, it is a vigorous vine in its youth, but as the vines age, yields decrease dramatically to produce dark, rich, concentrated fruit, as well as the mysterious, exotic spice that we all crave in southern French wine. So, hats off to Herve and his crew for their nurture of their 65-year-old Carignan, and the utterly delicious, captivating wine they create from it. A further note about Corbieres: despite the groundswell of quality in the region over the past two decades, it remains very well-priced overall, and offers some of the best wine values anywhere. At a recent consumer tasting of this wine, someone remarked that if this wine were made in California, it would cost $50. Although stylistically quite different from many a Cali Rhone blend, this remark hits it on the head: we challenge you to find a wine anywhere with so much profundity and character for only $16.49 or $14.02 with the 15% case discount! Patrick Mitten
Category Archives: Patrick Mitten
Two Of A Kind: One Piemontese Red; One Tuscan Red
Over the past several months, many of you have noticed the gradual expansion of our Italian section that now comprises many reds and whites from diverse regions of Italy. As we move ahead to spring, two favorite reds come to mind, and we want to highlight them for you. One is a profound, concentrated Tuscan Sangiovese to lay down for a handful of years. The other is a sexy, juicy, spicy but sophisticated Barbera to drink over the next few years with a wide variety of fare. Both come from small, artisanal producers deeply committed to expressing their terroirs.
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| Try our Italian favorites 6-pack (3 bottles each) $160. Save almost 25% (Regularly $212.94) |
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 A Sexy, Stylish Piemontese RedThere are many places in the world I have visited only via their wines. While I’ve traipsed through southern Italy and Tuscany, I’ve not yet had the good fortune to visit Piemonte, home of some of my favorite wines. However, the best wines, unlike any other agricultural product, have an uncanny way of transporting one to their place of origin, and thanks to vintners like Piero Busso, I can visit Piemonte any time via the bottle. And while it’s not limited to Piemonte-you may have had similar experiences with Burgundy or Bordeaux or Germany-recently Piero Busso’s single-vineyard Barbera Majano immediately teleported me to northwest Italy as its warmth countered the cool air in the region and its suggestion of forest floor, smoke and assorted meats led me to feel at table in this land of rich, truffle-laden cuisine. Barbera has an identity crisis. It ranges from cheap, insipid plonk to fancy barrique-aged renditions that can fetch over $100 a bottle. Historically, the more ‘noble’ Nebbiolo has overshadowed it, but given the respect it deserves, it can produce truly profound wines. I don’t want to place Busso’s Barbera Majano in some supposed hierarchy between cheap and cheerful and luxuriously flashy, so let it suffice to say it is serious wine that vividly captures the flavors of Piemonte. Farmed organically and harvested at optimal ripeness (without the over-ripeness of many a bruising uber-Barbera), this has a wonderfully concentrated core of pure red fruits. Piero, along with wife Lucia, daughter Emanuela and son Pierguido, are committed to pure vinous expression of their terroir, and their careful tending of the land and no-nonsense winemaking (fermentation in tank, followed by 10 months in large old barrels) allows the flavors of Piemonte to shine through. There are only just over 700 cases for the entire world, so we are proud to have scored an allocation to offer you. So, next time you want to travel to Piemonte, and have neither the time nor the money, reach for a bottle of Piero Busso Barbera Majano and arrive there immediately in First Class! On the nose, this is at once high-toned and earthy, with strongly licorice inflected red fruits combined with raw beef, truffles and a hint of smoke. An incisive burst of spice on the mid-palate fleshes out to opulent, sappy richness, while bright acidity immediately energizes the finish where hints of tar, cured meat and an echo of licorice linger. This month, only $189.00 ($15.75 per bottle) with our 25% off Case Special. |
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The poetic and philosophical Elisabetta Fagiuoli of Montenidoli in San Gimignano has earned the respect of fellow winemakers throughout Europe for her pioneering accomplishments with the much maligned Vernaccia grape, as well as the loving, but uncompromising manner in which she tends her land (she has dubbed herself ‘nurse’ of her vines). However, other than ourselves, her small batches of finely-honed Vernaccia have remained in relative obscurity in the U.S. Perhaps most importers are not ready to the challenge the image of Vernaccia as mindless, insipid wine to quaff in Florentine cafes. Through Elisabetta’s wines, some of you have discovered the complexities and delights of seriously crafted Vernaccia, and we have enjoyed the journey with you. More on Elisabetta here.
However, perhaps Elisabetta’s most striking accomplishment vintage after vintage is her Sono Montenidoli Rosso. We feel this Tuscan red stands strong against the nearby, and more expensive Brunello di Montalcino, yet comes from what most still consider a cheap white wine appellation. Well, we do need to admit that Elisabetta’s property is second to none in the zone, with amphitheatric vineyards offering breathtaking views of San Gimignano on one side and Chianti Classico on the other. It is here that old vines of Sangiovese stand and effectively thumb their noses at Chianti vines that may not always live up to their potential.
Organically cultivated low yields of old vines Sangiovese with a drop of Canaiolo combine to create a truly formidable Tuscan red that can age as well as the finest Brunello Riservas, yet somehow possesses more grace and distinction than many wines from that commune, despite its obvious heft and profundity. Brooding aromas of subtle red fruits, forest floor, wood smoke and iodine creep from the glass in a now guarded, but engaging manner, demonstrating the potential for ravishing perfume years down the road. On the palate, it is tightly wound, with plenty of texture drawn from deep roots in rocky soil. (These terraced vineyards were in fact once under sea, and the fossil-rich soil seems to impart a mouthwatering savoriness). Taut, strong tannins reveal themselves on the finish. Once these tannins unravel, surely sappy rich fruit will burst forth. Deeply savory, smoky notes tie it all up. To drink now, we recommend 2 hours decanting, as well as a Flintstonesque bistecca alla Fiorentina along side it. This month take advantage of our 25% off Case Special.– Patrick Mitten
Filed under Italy, Patrick Mitten, Piemonte, Tuscany, Uncategorized
2006 Bordeaux – The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Comes To San Francisco
The Wine House was represented as Patrick, Peter, and John were all able to taste the wide range of wines presented, and guess what? All three were impressed! The wines showed classic claret character. Despite their youth, most of the wines were approachable, and some were showing ravishing hints of their future development. They’ve got the stuff to last, and will offer great drinking while you’re waiting for those 2005s to shed their baby fat. We don’t want to leave the impression that 2006 is just a little brother next to their 2005 counterparts. There are certain chateaux, including Lynch Bages, Mouton Rothschild, Giscours and the recently arrived Pichon Lalande to name a few, where the 2006 bottling is considered to be at least the equivalent of if not better than their 2005 counterpart. With prices less expensive, we suggest that those of you who appreciate classic claret to take a look at the 2006 vintage. Except for a few early arrivals, the wines are being sold on a pre-arrival basis, and are expected in mid to late 2009. |
Well, we tasted separately, and didn’t stop to discuss much along the way (Peter blazed ahead of me; I dawdled a bit at the beginning, thinking I had a chance of taking detailed notes and get to taste as much as I wanted. Not.). However, we shared notes briefly on the following Monday, and found many common favorites, as well as some divergences in opinion. One thing rang true for me, though– these 2006 Bordeaux far exceeded my expectations based on the press. Recognized by the wine pundits as a particularly good vintage for the right bank, especially Saint Emilion (and yes, these were very good), I found a tremendous variety of character and overall high level of quality among left bank wines, as well. I knew it was a well-regarded vintage for the dry whites of Graves and Pessac-Leognan, and each I tasted was compelling, but the reds had much more to offer than I perhaps expected. Of course, these wines on both sides of the Dordogne are overshadowed by the splashy 2005s, but they are classic Bordeaux that offer tremendous pleasure now, but will age gracefully for many years to come. Overall, these 2006s offered a tremendous amount of sheer pleasure, in contrast to the massiveness of 2005s at the moment. Some of my notes below: |
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| Opulent, as one might expect, without going overboard. Velvety texture full of intense dark fruits, but solidly structured. |
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| Again, wonderfully plush texture, but with good energy and high-toned fruit singing above a profound texture. |
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| It’s all there–ripe, rich, round, concentrated, elegant texture, blah, blah, blah… Stefan von Neipperg has done it again with this classic Saint Emilion. |
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| Ripe, well-endowed, concentrated, toast and mocha-inflected fruit. |
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| Very classy, elegant, with minerality and suavity. |
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| A beauty. Perhaps the wine of the tasting?! Really savory, fresh berries, graceful, suave. I couldn’t spit this one. |
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| Classic St. Julien– big, but graceful and polished. Usually a Gruaud-Larose man, I preferred this. |
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| Distincive, with pretty floral perfume intermingled with savory, rich fruit. |
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| Powerful red-fruited nose cloaked in toast, graphite and caramel. Big, richly concentrated dark fruits on the palate, with a now sternly tannic finish. |
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| Attractive aromatics, with plenty of licorice-laced fruit, broad texture and powerful, lingering finish.Patrick Mitten |
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When details and opinions began to circulate regarding the 2006 vintage in Bordeaux, I always had in the back of my mind the thought that this was going to be one of those solid vintages, with modest pricing (okay, well, in many cases, anyway), whose wines will disappear just before the press really sing its praises. 2001 comes to mind immediately in this regard. It’s always good to have wines from great vintages in ye olde cellar, but hey, just like red Burgundy, I seem to enjoy vintages that the mainstream wine writers don’t gush over. So when the UGC came to pour Bordeaux 2006, I had an open mind, and would let the wines do the talking. Well, speak they did, some more than others, but for the most part, I was particularly impressed. The dry whites received acclaim, and rightfully so, they deserve it. The reds showed classic claret character without mouth shocking structure, and even though I had to hit the bread and cheese spread twice due to palate fatigue, I was able to get through the whole show tasting everything. (PS If Patrick found me to have blazed ahead, you should try to keep up with John at one of these tastings!) My notes below: |
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| Old school funkiness, zippy vibrancy, bright fruit, a quality effort. |
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| Stefan von Neipperg poured this for me himself, but I don’t seem to get star struck anymore. Big fruit, extra dimension on the aromatics, wow, rich, alive, will last, one of the ones. I guess I liked that one. |
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| Black cherries and mineral nose, toasty spice, medium tannins, and a menthol lift, it finishes of crushed, rocky cherries. |
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| I think this one was second to last for me, but my note starts off modestly, but then: Racy, candied fruit aromas, warm, soft, luscious, oily, deep botrytis, WOW! What depth!!! |
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| This has been my favorite Sauternes property over the last several vintages as they seem to be doing something very right lately. Rich, harmonious, botrytis, hint of candied pears and mandarin orange, wow. |
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| Polished fruit, hint of toasty mocha, like heaven, racy acidity, medium fruit, well integrated oak, harmony, I love this wine. Yep, confirming, this showed best of all. |
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| Modern style, oaky spice, rich tannins, lively fruit, mellow finish. |
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| Big extract, rich, powerful, all tied together in delicious harmony. Finishes like a sunset. One for the cellar. IN STOCK! |
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| Nose: berries upon berries … stewy fruit, high toned, yet in balance, zippy finish. |
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| Ah, another great effort here. I love these guys. Very unique. Dark fruit, gravel, and gamey, sweet fruit, zippy acid, racy tannins all tied together in harmony. Peter Zavialoff |
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Filed under 2006 Bordeaux, Bordeaux, French Wine, Patrick Mitten, Peter Zavialoff
I’ll Take Terroir for $13.17, Alex
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$15.49
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So, we have this guy Yves Gras. He’s one of the most talented young winemakers in Gigondas. He owns one of the finest high-elevation vineyards in all of Gigondas, Les Hautes Garrigues, and one dare say his Gigondas Prestige des Hautes Garrigues demonstrates an immediately recognizable terroir as it positively reeks of garrigue, and the well-drained, perilously rocky soil of the site gives the texture a deep and unmistakable mineral backbone. There is no doubt that Monsieur Gras is deeply committed to letting this terroir speak. But, then he goes and makes this Cotes du Rhone bottling “Les Quatre Terres” (The Four Lands). Yep, you guessed it, so called because it combines fruit from four different areas of the Southern Rhone! Seems like the antithesis of terroir expression, right? How will this jingle-jangle of fruit from Vacqueyras, Roaix, Seguret and Rasteau possibly speak with a clear, unified voice? Well, somehow, it does so admirably, and this highlights Gras’ crack skills as winemaker and blender, a bonus to his commitment and care in tending his vines. I think what Gras does here, obviously rather than capture a specific site in aroma and flavor, is to create a colorful composite of the overall spirit of Southern Rhone wines – generous ripe fruit, that certain peppery je ne sais quoi, wild herbs baking in the sun, a certain heady generosity, and a pleasant rusticity appropriate to the region’s hearty cuisine (it certainly did the trick with some simply grilled lamb chops laced with rosemary last night). It also gives a clear representation of how the region’s primary grapes – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault alchemically combine to captivate many of us wine drinkers and keep us coming back for more. Now that our whacked out January summer has appeared to have come to an end, the palpable warm Rhone sunlight will warm your belly and soul to create a warm smile of satisfaction. And that it’s a steal at only $15.49 per bottle (that’s $13.17 by the case, folks!), you will have all the more reason to smile. – Patrick Mitten |
Filed under 2005, Cotes du Rhone, French Wine, Patrick Mitten
A Taste of Burgundy – January/February 2009
A great way to learn about Burgundy and its wines, and (even better) the perfect way to get a discount on two high quality bottles. Sign up now!
Click here to receive the Taste of Burgundy Sampler automatically every other month.
| Basic Facts for those of you who are new to the program: Every two months we select two Burgundies, one red and one white. We include write-ups detailing the background of the grower, the vineyard source, and the wine. Finally we knock a significant percentage off the prices of the wines, making the Sampler price $89.98. If you would like us to add you to the Sampler Club and receive the wines regularly, please specify “store pickup” or “ship it” in the comments field, and we will charge your card accordingly. If you would like us to ship faster than the standard ground service, please specify this as well.
2005 Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Clos du Village – Domaine Rapet 2006 Nuits St. Georges Cuvee Vieilles Vignes – Bertrand Ambroise |
Filed under A Taste of Burgundy, Burgundy, French Wine, Patrick Mitten
2007 Philippe Raimbault Sancerre Apud Sariacum
Vintage 2007 in the Loire vividly captures the electrical snap and brightly acid, limestone-inflected character that seduce many to the pleasures of Loire whites. While 2005 and 2006 were very good vintages in the Loire, they emphasized lushness, with rich, tropical notes across the board. But while 2007 in general provides wines with crackling, precise minerality, they certainly do not lack fruit – bright lime and succulent grapefruit flavors can be found all over the place. Among the work of Sancerre growers, Philippe Raimbault’s Sancerre Apud Sariacum aptly sums up the best of Sancerre in 2007. Restrained and mineral driven, my notes include descriptors like cool, suave, elegant. On the nose and palate, it is all subtle lime and limestone with lithe texture and an overall sense of poise. Apud Sariacum refers to the fossilized stones littered throughout Raimbault’s vineyard that you can virtually taste. Mmm… even though I’m chilled to the bone at the moment, my mouth is watering for bivalves and Sauvignon Blanc. Forget that spritz of lemon, all you need is a gulp of Raimbault’s citrus-and-mineral goodness to enliven your shellfish! With the price of many of the world’s celebrated white wines on the rise (not to mention the price of seafood!), it is refreshing to see many fine whites from the Loire remain sensibly priced, and Raimbault’s Sancerre is no exception at $22.49 per bottle, or $17.99 per bottle by the case. Don’t hesitate to stock up now, not only to weather crab season, but to take you into the spring and summer, when you will no doubt no less appreciate its refreshing charms! |
Filed under French Wine, Patrick Mitten
I Should Have Opened My Mouth Sooner
I don’t drink Bordeaux as often as I’d like. There are multiple reasons for this. I belong to a generation that hasn’t been able to afford it on a regular basis (long gone are the days of $12 first growths). I also lack the patience to age claret into the autumnal glow of earthy, wooly secondary characteristics, and consume it in its primary, tannic youth. And lastly, my heart hasn’t always been in it. It was, I think, the exotic, wild perfume and spice of Rhone wines that first seduced me, but sometimes I do seek the aristocratic reserve and intellectual stimulation of Bordeaux.
So it was a couple weeks ago that I took home a bottle of 2005 Cap de Faugeres (85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc). It has a long reputation as an overachiever in the Cotes de Castillon, it’s from an indisputably great vintage, we were grilling a Flintstone-esque cowboy ribeye that night, and the price was right. And I was attracted by the decent dose of Cabernet Franc and what it might contribute to the perfume.
I tried it right after opening it, and it was a monster. Aromatically withdrawn, brooding in texture, fruit withheld and sternly tannic, my fear that this may be too young would possibly be confirmed. (I’m not expecting a fully integrated, open knit, totally expressive experience from any 2005 Bordeaux at the moment, but I found this surprisingly forbidding). However, after an hour in the decanter, it really started to bloom, serving up fragrances of luscious dark fruits, licorice, graphite and lilacs. Still dense and firm in the middle, the clamps were starting to loosen on the fruit to suggest richly concentrated cassis and mulberry. There was also some Cabernet Franc-induced green tobaaco and attractive herbaceousness. However, those tannins were still strongly in charge, although the grip was perhaps balanced by the gradually yielding aromas and flavors. After two hours in the decanter and competition from the steak, the tannins started to stretch out a bit, allowing for a more pliable texture, with a long, luscious finish.
I love it! With a little decanting and beating the wine up a bit in the glass, here’s a young Bordeaux that offers lots of pleasure right now! This is not to say that it lacks profundity – far from it. I wouldn’t hesitate to pull a bottle in five years, or even ten; it has the stuffing to not only last, but develop tremendous complexity down the line.
So, you may rightly ask why I didn’t open my big mouth (although I’m not typically known for bombast) a couple weeks ago when we had this wine on sale for $18.75 or $199 a case?! Mea culpa! Well, to right the situation, we have extended sale pricing on this baby past our anniversary sale. So, stock up now on this red Bordeaux that will reward both the patient and impatient alike. – Patrick Mitten
Filed under 2005, 2005 Bordeaux, Bordeaux, French Wine, Patrick Mitten
Piero Busso Barbera Majano 2006
Barbera has an identity crisis. It ranges from cheap, insipid plonk to fancy barrique-aged renditions that can fetch over $100 a bottle. Historically, the more “noble” Nebbiolo has overshadowed it, but given the respect it deserves, it can produce truly profound wines. I don’t want to place Busso’s Barbera Majano in some supposed hierarchy between cheap and cheerful and luxuriously flashy, so let it suffice to say it is serious wine that vividly captures the flavors of Piemonte. Farmed organically and harvested at optimal ripeness (without the over-ripeness of many a bruising uber-Barbera), this has a wonderfully concentrated core of pure red fruits. Piero, along with wife Lucia and daughter and son Pierguido and Emanuela, are committed to pure vinous expression of their terroir, and their careful tending of the land and no-nonsense winemaking (fermentation in tank, followed by 10 months in large, old barrels) allows the flavors of Piemonte to shine through. Possessed of both the grace and gravitas one expects from the best wines of the region, this offers a profound drinking experience without the bells and whistles of 200% new oak Barberas, and most attractively, at a price one can handle in this famously expensive wine region. The 2005 and 2006 vintages were particularly favorable for Barbera and its “little” brother Dolcetto. Having tasted many examples from these vintages, I can confidently say this wine represents one of the best Italian wine values in the marketplace. Having said that, there are only just over 700 cases for the entire world, so we are proud to have scored an allocation to offer you. So, next time you want to travel to Piemonte, and have neither the money nor the time, reach for a bottle of Piero Busso Barbera Majano and arrive there immediately! – Patrick Mitten |
On the nose, this is at once high-toned and earthy, with strongly licorice-inflected red fruits combined with raw beef, truffles and a hint of smoke. An incisive burst of spice on the midpalate fleshes out to opulent, sappy richness, while bright acidity immediately energizes the finish where hints of tar, cured meat and an echo of licorice linger. |
Filed under Patrick Mitten
A Cure For The Late Summer Blues!
Summer is technically drawing to a close, leaving me slightly blue and nostalgic, but as is customary ‘round these parts, we’re certainly destined for several more days of sunshine. Thus, my mind remains focused on cool, flavorful, refreshing white wines. I particularly favor whites that balance richness of texture with crisp freshness (as you may have noticed, like a broken record, in my other tasting notes). A longtime fan of Rhone whites for this combination of unctuousness and minerality, I am always on the lookout for a bargain, and man, have I found it! At only $12.99 per bottle, this is one to buy by the case. And to sweeten the deal, we are offering this at a 20% discount by the case! That’s only $10.39 per bottle!
Thierry and Veronique Boudinaud’s Grange des Rouquette is situated across the Rhone from Avignon, just south of the appellations of Lirac and Tavel. Over the past ten to fifteen years, they have taken advantage of their small plots of Marsanne and Viognier, fermented in a combination of tank and barrel to create this white that is at once crisp enough for an afternoon picnic spent in blistering sunlight, and round and deep enough for dishes with richly creamy sauces.
Viognier-infused aromas of flowers, peaches and apricots, as well as a whiff of tropical fruit bloom from the glass. Broad-shouldered Marsanne contributes substance and depth on the palate without heaviness, while zippy fruit dances along the palate with minerality and acidity. An attractive creaminess emerges on the long finish thanks to the deft barrel work, but the last word is succulent and crisp.
At this price, indulge in this delicious white during the precious handful of sun-kissed days that lie ahead. This little number is certain to cure any late summer blues and, heck, might even keep the fog at bay a bit longer! – Patrick Mitten
Filed under French Wine, General, Patrick Mitten
Costieres de Nimes Epiphany
Tasting this wine with a friend of mine last week, we turned our heads and looked at each other with shock and awe. Well, maybe let’s just say surprise. You see, it’s a wine we know from previous vintages, and like, and respect, but never has it elicited this kind of response. This is just good ole honest, satisfying, reasonably priced, south-of-France country wine, right? Well, yes it is, but we found a degree of depth and complexity that rocked us. In fact, it led my friend to say that elements of it reminded him of a California Syrah he drank the previous evening that cost $45.00! And yes, I am familiar with that wine, and it is a head-turning wine, but when you can have the same profound sense of pleasure and surprise for $13.99 (or $11.89 with case discount), what is one to do? If I can afford to drink this well every day, sign me up!
We sell many wines from the south of France here at the Wine House, so we constantly taste and re-taste Grenache/Syrah-based reds, especially from Costieres de Nimes, near the breathtaking Roman city of Nimes, an area in which our portfolio is particularly strong. And while we rarely tire of these wines thanks to the strong commitment to quality and terroir among their growers, there is a certain sense in which these wines become routine after several vintages. It is almost as though we know how these wines will perform, and while they rarely disappoint our expectations, they maybe don’t create that flash of near ecstasy that can be so thrilling when encountering something very fine and unknown.
Hence my friend’s and my joy the other day when I popped open the 2007 Mas Des Bressades Syrah/Grenache. Always the most broad-shouldered of our Grenache/Syrahs we select from the area, I of course expected ripe, concentrated fruit and firm tannins, which the wine delivered in spades. Perhaps the biggest rendition of this wine I’ve tasted in recent vintages, it both charmed me and bowled me over with the purity of its fruit. On the nose, I felt as though I had just harvested loads of fresh blueberries and blackberries and now smelled them as if they baked into caramelized goodness in a pie. In the mouth, those berry flavors fan out in a lush, mouthcoating manner. While I expected this lushly ripe fruit, I also got what I call a mineral dig and potent texture that conjured up the idea of the joyously ripe Southern Rhone fruit harmoniously joining the iron-and-iodine structure of Bordeaux. In short, this wine far exceeded my expectations and in fact perhaps changed my expectations, but certainly gave me the jolt I usually only get from spendier wines.
So, if you’re looking for something to create that ecstatic, aha experience in your vinous world, thank over-achieving winemaker Cyril Mares that you can have it for well under a twenty with his shockingly good Mas des Bressades Syrah/Grenache.- Patrick Mitten
Filed under Costieres de Nimes, French Wine, General, Patrick Mitten
The Wine House San Francisco 