New Domestic Arrivals: Spotlight on Carlisle

Mike Officer’s Zinfandels and Syrahs are powerful reds that though delicious young, reward those patient enough to lay them down for a bit. The structure and intensity that Mike coaxes out of the grapes produces wines that can age. No longer known just as a master of Zinfandel, Mike Officer has earned a reputation for making some of California’s most coveted Syrahs. In a recent WA review, Parker summed up Carlisle with this declaration, “these are artisanal, world-class reds that remain among California’s most fairly priced high quality wines.” We couldn’t agree more. – Anya Balistreri

*Notes from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Feb 2011

It is amazing to think that fifteen years ago no one had ever heard of Carlisle Winery and Vineyards or Mike Officer. Moreover, what Officer has done to preserve old vine Zinfandel vineyards in Sonoma is nothing short of astonishing. Add to that success story his sensational line-up of Syrahs, Petite Sirahs and Rhone Ranger blends and it is undeniable that this man and his winery are at the top of their game. These are artisanal, world-class reds that remain among California’s most fairly priced high quality wines… Mike Officer says 2009 is a strong year for his wines, but since he has done nearly everything right, it is hard for me to say his 2009s are better than previous vintages… Readers who love these wines are advised to stock up on what is left of the 2008s as well as the upcoming 2009s. – Robert Parker

2009 Russian River Valley Carlisle Vineyard Zinfandel – 93-95 POINTS
The 2009 Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard (93% Zinfandel and 7% mixed blacks) is equal to the Montafi and just a notch behind the prodigious Monte Rosso. A sexy, heady wine, its dark plum/purple color is followed by a big, sweet kiss of blueberries, blackberries, wild, briery, mountain berries, spice box, pepper, roasted herb and forest floor. This chewy, thick, rich beauty will drink well for 7-8 years.

2009 Russian River Valley Papera Ranch Zinfandel – 92-95 POINTS
Another classic in the making, the 2009 Zinfandel Papera Ranch demonstrates just how elegant Zinfandel can be with its kirsch and raspberry notes that resemble Grenache more than Zinfandel. There is terrific fruit on the attack and mid-palate, full body and good purity. Moreover, the wood component is pushed to the background. This 2009 should be delicious young and last 4-5 years.

2009 Bennett Valley Cardiac Hill Syrah – 92-94 POINTS
From the famed Cardiac Hill, the 2009 Syrah Cardiac Hill will not make anyone forget the 2008, but it is another great effort. Forty percent whole clusters were used and the crop size was significantly larger than in 2008. The 2009 displays a blue/purple color along with copious aromas of graphite, ink, black currants, crushed rocks and a hint of spring flowers. Full-bodied with surprisingly modest alcohol (14.5%) for this vineyard, it offers a beautiful combination of power and elegance and should age effortlessly for a decade.

New Domestic Arrivals: Spotlight on Bedrock Wine Company

Bedrock Wine Company is no longer some little known, up and coming winery.  Quite the contrary, winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson is clearly a leading force in the making of California’s most intriguing wines from unique, often historical vineyards along the North Coast.  Only a few hundred cases made of this and a few of that, so nothing stays on the shelf for long.  Any self-describing Zinfandel lover must try the Bedrock and the Lorenzo’s… You owe it to yourself! – Anya Balistreri

*Notes from Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, May/June 2011:

2010 Sonoma Coast Syrah

2009 Sonoma County Cuvée Caritas – 90 POINTS
(A 55/45 blend of semillon and sauvignon blanc): Bright yellow-gold. High-pitched aromas of grapefruit rind, green apple and white flowers, with musky lees and smoky nuances adding complexity. Concentrated and tactile, with very good cut to its intense citrus and floral flavors. Has a firm backbone and closes with very good, chewy persistence.

2009 Old Lakeville Vineyard Syrah – 92 POINTS
(vinified with 40% whole clusters): Bright violet. Intense scents of blackberry, cherry-cola and candied violet, with strong mineral and spicecake accents. Shows energetic, peppery, very pure flavors of dark berries and candied flowers. Picks up a wild herb note on the back, finishing sweet and impressively long, with lingering suggestions of tangy minerals and allspice.

2010 The Bedrock Heirloom Vineyard, Sonoma Valley

2009 Lorenzo’s Heirloom, Dry Creek Valley – 90 POINTS
(A blend based on 50% zinfandel and 25% carignane): Opaque purple. Powerful, ripe cherry and blackcurrant aromas are deepened by strong mineral and violet tones. A rich, rather brooding style, with chewy texture and deep, liqueur-like dark fruit flavors. Finishes ripe and very long, with powerful tannins; this could use some time to loosen up.

2009 Kick Ranch Syrah – 92 POINTS
Inky purple. Rich, pungent aromas of singed plum, blackberry, cherry compote and espresso, plus a hint of licorice. Full and weighty but lively as well, with strong cherry and plum flavors accented by dark chocolate, espresso and candied violet. Finishes with pliant, harmonious tannins and excellent persistence. This decidedly rich, powerful wine would work well with grilled meats or strong cheeses. There’s 5% viognier in here and all of the grapes were destemmed; it’s carrying 15.1% alcohol but I get no heat.

2009 Rebecca’s Vineyard Pinot Noir – 90 POINTS
Bright red. Vibrant redcurrant and cherry aromas are enlivened by fresh rose, Indian spices and zesty minerality. Bright red berry and bitter cherry flavors are framed by silky tannins and given lift by a hint of tangy blood orange. Puts on weight with air and picks up a darker blackberry note, finishing with very good clarity and nervy cut.

2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandel

2009 Grange des Rouquette Syrah/Grenache

WINE OF THE MONTH – 2009 GRANGE DES ROUQUETTE SYRAH/GRENACHE En Avril, n’ote pas un fil. En Mai, fais ce qu’il te plait. Translation: “In April, don’t take off your clothes, but in May, do as you please.” Mon Dieu! “Clothes off? What is this woman talking about!?” You must be wondering. Well, aside from an attempt at showing off what little of the French language I have mastered, I thought this quirky quote a rather lovable and fitting introduction to our May “Wine of the Month”. If you’ve been following us through cyberspace or via snail mail lately, you know that we’re just a smidge excited about Springtime, and in particular, the month of May. The only month of 31 days spent entirely in Spring; The month in which we celebrate everything from horse power and heros to mothers and Mexico… and do a lot of barbecuing to boot! That being the case, it stands to reason that a wine befitting many occasions (and many a budget) should be the May W.O.M. Drum-roll please…. The 2009 Grange des Rouquette Vin de Pays d’Oc Syrah/Grenache is one of those gems that epitomize what we here at TWH love to do most: find wines that outperform their pricepoint. By a LOT. Now in its fifth generation of viticulture and winemaking, Domaine Grange des Rouquette has become renowned for their craft both locally and abroad. Located in the tiny commune of Fournes, on the right bank of the Rhone River, this estate has produced vintage after vintage of delicious and versatile wines – both red and white – that seem to not only represent the terroir from which they hail, but also the many things about great winemaking learned, practiced, and perfected across the globe. This is thanks to Thierry and Veronique Boudinaud, the heart and soul behind Grange des Rouquette, who have traveled from New Zealand to California and places in between in order to hone their skills. The couple now owns 50 hectares in and around the Cotes du Rhone appellation, and though this Syrah/Grenache (with a little Mourvedre thrown in) is Vin du Pays d’Oc, the old-vine Syrah and Grenache come from their best vineyard sites. The blend is a traditional one, made up of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, and 10% Mourvedre – all harvested separately for optimal ripeness. A small portion of the old-vine Syrah gets barrel treatment, but otherwise, the grapes are vinified in stainless steel tanks to maximize the freshness of the fruit. The result is a wine with bright, juicy purple & red fruit on the nose and palate and enough savory earthiness and grit to warrant the cognomen “baby Cotes du Rhone.” I’d suggest pairing it with Poulet de Bresse while taking in the view from a grande villa in the Rhone-Alps, but it will be just as fantastic with a fat juicy burger & veggies off the grill in your back yard (and if you happen to take my first recommendation, please take me with you.) Santé! –Emily Crichton p.s. Happy Birthday to my adorable niece Minnie who turns 1 year old today!! Whoo hoo!

Smackin Good Syrah

NEED A REMEDY FOR THE SILVER PALATE ON A TIGHT BUDGET? Look no further than the 2007 Domaine des Cantarelles Syrah de Fayel. It has it all: cheery, lively fruit with a hint of herb lurking beneath with no oak to mask the sunny syrah flavors and it costs only $10.99 ($9.34 per bottle on a full case purchase). My bio for our website notes that I pride myself on turning people onto bang for your buck wines for everyday enjoyment. This is precisely the kind of wine that fulfills that promise. My first taste of this wine made me giddy with excitement knowing that our customers were in for a real treat. Tasting wine with staff in our warehouse is informative, but sometimes I need to get to know a wine better. This means taking a bottle home to get to know it on a first name basis. Many subsequent bottles later, my enthusiasm for this wine has only grown. The sweet black cherry fruit, while concentrated, remains lively and fresh on the palate. My weekly dinner menus tend to be simple preparations, so I favor medium-bodied reds, nothing heavy or overwhelming. The unoaked treatment is right on target when you’re looking for something delicious, albeit uncomplicated or unfussy, but that delivers lots of well-rounded fruit with no harsh tannins or excessive acidity. Meant with the utmost of respect, this is the perfect “pizza, pasta, burger” wine. If you haven’t heard, the 2007 vintage in the southern Rhone is a great success. Winemakers and wine critics alike are voicing their admiration for this vintage. I take notice when I hear things like “the best vintage ever” or “nothing like it in 30 years”. Whether or not I end up collecting the sought-after wines of this region, my excitement comes from knowing that in these consistent, across the board quality vintages like 2005 in Bordeaux, quality can be found at all levels. Translation: fantastic wines that are soft on the pocketbook abound! That’s good news; we all need a little good news. For a sneak peak into this phenomena, you must try the 2007 Syrah de Fayel. The vineyards for the Syrah de Fayel are situated southeast of Nimes. The large pebble strewn soils of this area closely resemble southern Cotes du Rhones vineyards. The meticulous work done in the vineyard by proprietor Jean-François Fayel ensures the best material with which to work. On a side note: not that us wine types pay attention to this kinda stuff, but I can’t tell you how charmed I am by the colorful label depicting the Feria de Nimes, or bull fighting.

Here in the San Francisco Bay Area, it’s been hard to remember that we are still in the midst of winter. Even so, the sunny days haven’t made a dent into my cravings for slow braised meats and old-fashioned casseroles. As I scour over my grocery store fliers planning for the week ahead, I relish knowing that I can pop a cork on the 2007 Syrah de Fayel without feeling that I’ve overspent my budget. Anya

GOLD AND RED REDUX

2005 Rouge Cht. D’Or et De Gueules IT’S BACK!!! Following the Spring email offer, Gold Red Wine, our initial 70 case allocation vanished in the blink of an eye. Even I was shut out, only managing to squirrel away a bottle, and I wrote the email! After much begging and pleading, we managed to get our hands on some more. This wine is not to be missed. I can’t tell you how excited I am to get this wine back in stock. Now, those of you who couldn’t keep from opening just one more bottle will have an opportunity to replenish your stash and I will take my own advice to buy some NOW.

Anya’s Tasting Notes: One whiff of the ‘05 Rouge Select lets you know this is it! Warm, sticky blue/black berry fruit aromas drift out of the glass revealing crushed rock and earthy minerality. A blend of roughly half syrah with the balance divided between old vine carignan and grenache, this deeply fruited red has dimension and complexity. There is certainly ample fruit but then there is that added something else that can only be described as that “Chateau D’or et Des Gueules thing”. Yes, that is a technical term the Wine House staff has coined. One sip of this wine and you’ll immediately understand.

Warning: In the recent issue of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate dedicated to the world’s greatest wine values under $25, the 2005 Rouge was featured and bestowed with a score of 90 points. The Advocate‘s tasting note follows the wine listing.

2005 Chateau d’Or et de Gueules Costieres de Nimes Select Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Languedoc-Roussillon; $14.49

Smoky, Lapsang tea, roasted game, and jellied black fruits rise from the glass. An impressive concentration of elderberry, purple plum and meat juices on the palate are laced with iodine, bitter fruit pits, pungent herbs, dark chocolate, and chalk. For all of its sheer density, this wine displays textural polish, and for all of its ripeness there is scarcely any heat, but an abundance of sheer juicy finishing fruit.

$12.31 per bottle with case discount And so, leaves are being to gather on my front lawn, Pre-School has armed my daughter with a new repertoire of songs to entertain us with and those pesky heirloom tomatoes are finally ripening. All I need now is a glass full of this lovely red to complete the mood… Anya Balistreri

2006 Mas Carlot Costieres de Nimes Les Enfants Terribles

Parenting Children and Vines We have been touting the work of tour-de-force Nimes winemaker Diane Puymorin lately, and now we want to raise the flag for our other force-to-be-reckoned-with woman winemaker in Nimes (not to mention fellow champion of our beloved Mourvedre), Nathalie Blanc-Mares. You may already know her bold Grenache/Syrah and Cabernet/Syrah cuvees. However, her 50/50 blend of Mourvedre and Syrah named Les Enfants Terribles always stands out for its deep, meaty richness (if any two varieties resemble blood in a bottle, they are Mourvedre and Syrah, and what a treat to get these two alone together … why am I suddenly hungry for the thick-cut lamb chops in my fridge?!) So, what’s with the name? The story goes that Nathalie, her husband Cyril (who coincidentally heads up neighboring estate Mas des Bressades) and importer Bobby Kacher were shooting the bull one day about their rambunctious kids whilst tasting some tanks and barrels to make final blending decisions. The conversation also raised the topic of the many and various difficulties of growing these wild grape varieties (therein lies the pun). Taken by a particular lot of Mourvedre that seemed like it would harmonize perfectly with a crack batch of Syrah, they couldn’t resist creating a new cuvee. So, we must credit Blanche, Eugene, Olympe, Achille and Alexander for their antics that inspired their parents to fashion this beauty. Dark and brooding in character, with lots of underlying energy, this showcases the pure blue fruit aromas that seem to be part and parcel of both good quality Mourvedre (Boysenberry, black raspberry) and Syrah (freshly plucked blueberries, currants) in counterpoint with smoked meat, beef blood and wild herbs, tamed by a hint of oak-infused cocoa and vanilla. (If this wine at all resembles Nathalie, Cyril and Bobby’s children, they are an intense, serious, impactful lot!) I haven’t said anything about price yet. The vagaries of growing top-quality Syrah and Mourvedre are costly and labor intensive and most often drive up the cost of the wine. But I’m not playing my cards close to my vest, hesitating to drop the bomb about some boutique-priced Languedoc wine. In fact, not only is it a privilege to experience Mourvedre and Syrah in equal parts together, I am happy to announce that this wine only costs you $13.99 per bottle or $11.89 with case discount. Hats off to Nathalie, not to mention her human and vinous Enfants Terribles!– Patrick Mitten

Love Potion

2003 Chateau d’Or et de Gueules Costieres de Nimes Trassegum Rouge Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Languedoc-Roussillon; $21.99

$18.69 per bottle with case discount.

AKA the man with the strawberry and bacon salad. We’ll get to the salad later. Let’s address “love potion.” Trassegum means love potion. It’s funny that a staff favorite has so many less-than-pronounceable words on its label. The 2003 d’Or et de Gueules Trassegum Rouge. Feel free to just ask for the love potion. Feel free to ask in a husky voice. Regardless of the difficulty of pronunciation, these wines are some of these best that we offer. Anya gave up a staff secret when she wrote up their “Select” (the red and gold wine), and that sold out faster than we could secure our stashes. We are trying to get more. The Trassegum sits at a higher level, and beats most every Rhone wine in this price range. We are the only ones in the country selling this blend of Syrah and old vine Mourvedre and Carignane. It is the chateau’s prestige level wine, which they don’t release until it has rested for the appropriate time in bottle. 2005 Chateau Margaux has hit the United States, yet it won’t be ready to drink for decades. Diane Puymorin, who is as close to a rock star as a winemaker can get if you ask me, ages this wine at her estate, at her own expense, and as a result we get something lovely. There are a lot of good reasons to drink this wine, and I will go into some (not all), but the main reason is that it is exceedingly delicious. Seriously. If you like anything about Rhone wine and its myriad of flavors, this is for you. Another reason is that Diane is exactly the type of person we want making wine. She has strong beliefs and opinions, and she’s out there going for it, no matter what people say about big production and money making. She is on the cutting edge, yet there is an intuitive simplicity to the way she works. For example this wine sits in cask (no new wood) for a year in order to develop the mouthfeel. Then she racks into tank, where it sits for two more years, as she wants the wine to age before release, but she doesn’t want too much wood influence. Makes good sense, right? But this is not normal protocol. It’s something she figured out based on what she wanted from a wine. And it shows. The wines give genuine flavor with the fine texture that you expect from the well bred. When a winemaker is truly progressive, and her wines work, I want to support her. Another reason is the sheer breadth of flavor and character. When you smell this, as it washes across your palate, immediately your brain starts running around looking for descriptors. It reminds me of speeding through beautiful countryside. There are many details that are no doubt very interesting, and you can try to concentrate on specific points in your panorama, but it’s much better if you take in the view as a whole. That said there are two flavors that really stuck with me. A beautiful ripe strawberry fruit accompanied by savory meatiness. It’s such an intriguing combo, I am always in danger of drinking too fast when this is in my glass. I wonder how a strawberry and bacon salad would taste? Not strawberries and bacon on salad. The two together, maybe with a light dressing, but that’s it. I think that sounds good. But I know better than to trust myself here. I’m the one who served my wife a balsamico Martini. That didn’t work. Not that it couldn’t, but when a martini looks like it is dosed with iodine, you should rethink your presentation. So I’ll stick with wine and leave the hipster salad and martini making to those gifted in these fields. The point of the strawberry bacon comments is to point out how wine can pull off ultra-dynamic flavors. Even with top Ferry Building Farmer’s Market real estate, I bet the bacon-strawberry-salad man would have a hard time, cursing his creativity as shoppers mull past muttering, “Weird” and “Let’s get a chicken.” Wine is lucky in its freedom. Wine is also lucky to have Diane Puymorin as a creator and Trassegum as a representative. While I can’t promise your date will fall in love with you with this in their glass, they will fall for the wine. You just have to keep giving them more. – Ben Jordan

2003 Chateau d’Or et de Gueules Costieres de Nimes Trassegum Rouge Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Languedoc-Roussillon; $21.99

$18.69 per bottle with case discount.

Tasting Notes
As I mentioned, specific tasting notes are not what this wine is about. It is a full Rhone experience. If you like the flavors of Gigondas, Chateauneuf, and Cote Rotie, this amalgamates them. I was worried that the wine would be too 2003, oversized and brooding, but Diane has a deft touch. She has the components working in unison. There is tannin, but it is rounded by age, and it melts into food. And the wine smells beautiful. Overall the experience well outpaces the price, making this a great buy.

GOLD RED WINE: Chateau d’Or et du Gueules Rouge Select

2005 Chateau d’Or et de Gueules Costieres de Nimes Select Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Languedoc-Roussillon; $14.49

$12.31 per bottle with case discount.

A customer and I got into a long conversation about 2005 Bordeaux wines which ultimately lead to a discussion of wine prices. I admit, I have bought some ‘05’s, and hope to buy more, but none of the blue chip first growths and such for me. No, my pared down lifestyle won’t allow for that. However, as I explained to my customer rather optimistically, as long as there are bang for your buck, complex, and charming country wines out there, I know I will always be drinking well. This interchange came rushing back to me from the depths of my cluttered mind as I took my first whiff of the 2005 Rouge Select from Chateau D’Or et de Gueules. THIS IS IT! This is what I was talking about! Warm, sticky blue/black berry fruit aromas drift out of the glass revealing crushed rock and earthy minerality. At a staff development day, the first taste of this wine unleashed a great big smile from me. I looked to my colleagues for validation and consensus. I was met with equally giddy smiles. Yes, this is good, really good. A little background: Diane Puymorin purchased the estate in 1998 and embarked on a vigorous task of replanting and other such winery improvements. The fruits of her labor are definitely paying off, as her wines go from strength to strength. Her wines are not going unnoticed either. Diane was recently featured in Decanter where they described her wines as “stylish, complex and assertive-much like herself”. A featured Wine House Staff favorite, the 2003 Rouge Select received a whopping 91 pts from the Wine Advocate and virtually disappeared from our store in a matter of minutes (what little we had left from our persistent recommendations). So let this be a warning to you: buy now, you won’t regret it. I am going to go out on the limb and say the ‘05 is even better than the ’03. A blend of roughly half syrah with the balance divided between old vine carignan and grenache, this deeply fruited red has dimension and complexity. There is certainly ample fruit but then there is that added something else that can only be described as that “Chateau D’or et de Gueules thing”. Yes, that is a technical term the Wine House staff has coined. One sip of this wine and you’ll immediately understand. An analogy I like to overuse is that it gives me the same type of pleasure that a true old-vine zinfandel does, not necessarily similar in flavor but it has that combo of gooey fruit matched with soil and herb. And so, Lent is finally over, my family is celebrating Easter and after my fill of vodka and kholodetz (you’ll have to look this one up) my plan is to marinate some Lamb, throw it on the grill and wash it down with this amazing wine! – Anya Balistreri

2005 Chateau d’Or et de Gueules Costieres de Nimes Select Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Languedoc-Roussillon; $14.49

$12.31 per bottle with case discount.

Anthill Farms Returns: 2006s

Anthill Farms 6 Bottle Sampler – $12 savings $234.98

One bottle each of five Pinot Noirs and one Syrah. See individual listings below.

Anthill Farms 12 Bottle Sampler – $45 savings $449.98

Two bottles each of five Pinot Noirs and one Syrah. See individual listings below.

Last year, we debuted these wines without really knowing what kind of response to expect. I knew I liked them (a lot), but I had to wait until people got the wines in their glasses. We sold the carp out of them, like they were Varner or Carlisle with big points. A month or so later Alan Meadows at Burghound came out with high praise and high scores, and all of a sudden these guys were no longer a secret. Almost a year later, our customers are still asking for more. Which makes the release of the 2006s a welcome occasion. We were lucky to get in with these wines when we did, which I proclaim a triumph of peskiness. Now we’re on the list, and the Anthill guys were nice enough to maintain our allocation. Which we appreciate, because restaurants are already starting to devour this stuff. When I went up to taste the 2006s from bottle, a buyer from a local wine bar ordered 20 cases of the Comptche for his by-the-glass program. When case production is in the low hundreds, 20 here and 20 there means sold out soon. I tasted the 2006s from barrel and bottle, and it was a pleasure to remind myself of what initially drew me in. They are wines of refined succulence, seductive length, and intricate aromatics. They fold into food and quilt (quilt, the verb) across the palate. To call Anthill pioneers of California Pinot Noir might sound odd, but these guys are definitely in new territory, and their’s is a path worth following. If you missed the wines last year, and you’re wondering what the deuce I’m going on about, Anthill Farms is a partnership of three winemakers/viticulturists who met in the cellar at Williams Seylem. Their approach is not complicated: The California wine industry is, for the most part, divided between growers and winemakers, and the result is that the two are not always working toward the same objectives. This can compromise fruit quality in the name of business. Anthill’s solution is to cultivate genuine partnerships with smaller vineyards. They end up doing some or all of the viticulture, and they coax the fruit to ripeness right alongside their growers. To paraphrase Webster Marquez, they are significantly (really, a whole lot) more involved in the day to day of their vineyards than most “estate” vineyards. The result is boutique, and in some cases micro-vineyards that produce wines the likes of which we don’t often see coming from California. There is a tendency for us to call Pinot Noirs that we like (like these) Burgundian. I say that’s a simplification. What I love about these wines is that they succeed aromatically, texturally, and in the nuance and persistence of the flavors; they succeed as Pinot Noir. The Syrah succeeds as Syrah, in case you were wondering. They remind me that I like good Burgundy not simply because it is Burgundy, but because it is Pinot Noir from an excellent site. The best Burgundies succeed as Pinot Noir, and since Burgundy came first, we call successful California Pinot ‘Burgundian’. Which is strange because when we eat a nice chicken we don’t compare it to an egg. Yes, I’m saying the egg came first. Try and stop me. Let’s forget that terminology. These wines operate in many of the same ways fine Burgundy operates, but they are not insecure, trying to be Burgundy. Rather they know they are Pinot Noir, and they are Californian as a starting point. They build upon this and paradoxically become wines to cure California fatigue. They reveal their place as well as any wine from this state. They are distinct and exciting to have in your glass. The Anthill wines are Pinot Noir as Pinot Noir should be. And that’s why (the deuce) I keep going on about them. We have two samplers again this year, a six pack and a full case, both with 5 Pinots and the outstanding-value Syrah. Both offer significant discounts off the normal retail and give you the chance to taste across the Anthill portfolio. I’ve included my notes on each wine below. – Ben Jordan

Anthill Farms 6 Bottle Sampler – $12 savings $234.98

One bottle each of five Pinot Noirs and one Syrah.

Anthill Farms 12 Bottle Sampler – $45 savings $449.98

Two bottles each of five Pinot Noirs and one Syrah.

Tasting Notes Many times I won’t do formal tasting notes, but since none of the critics have published yet (they’ve tasted and liked a lot), I figured I should try to translate my chicken scratch into something helpful.

2006 Anthill Farms Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Red Wine; Pinot Noir; North Coast; $34.98

This is the first year for this appellation wine. It’s basically Demuth with a little Abbey Harris. This was the first wine they poured, and it jumped out immediately with the aromatics. Snappy and vigorous and with these black tea back notes that seem be an aromatic calling card for these wines. The palate is spicy and well fruited, and it’s already showing well, though this wine will really start to sing after a few more months in bottle.

2006 Anthill Farms Pinot Noir Comptche Ridge Vineyard Mendocino County Red Wine; Pinot Noir; Other California; $44.98

One of the great examples of extreme ‘vineyarding’. Evidently you have to drive out to Mendocino and then back inland to get to this site. The nose is very perfumed, a perfect example of why people are excited about these wines. In the mouth it is cool fruit and spice, and finishes with cream and vanilla bean. It wants time, but it sure is delicious already.

2006 Anthill Farms Pinot Noir Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley Red Wine; Pinot Noir; Other California; $44.98

Probably showing the best in the lineup the day I tasted, its aromatics are quite refined and focused for a wine this young. The palate brings berries, herbs, tea and an expansive midpalate. A lot of length here, and the wood is well integrated for such a young California wine. Last year, this was one of the more muscular wines in the lineup, but this year it seems to revel in its subtlety.

2006 Anthill Farms Pinot Noir Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast Red Wine; Pinot Noir; Sonoma; $44.98

The shy subtlety of last year is replaced with more amplitude and denser fruit. There’s all sorts of clove and anise, making this a wine to stick with for as long as you can. I used to always ooh and ah over the Hirsch vineyard wines, but this is bringing more value while keeping with the high quality that you would expect from a well situated/farmed Sonoma Coast vineyard.

2006 Anthill Farms Pinot Noir Tina Marie Vineyard Russian River Valley Red Wine; Pinot Noir; Sonoma; $48.98

While the Peter’s and Demuth seemed to flip flop in power from last year, the Tina Marie continues with its more flamboyant Russian River personality. While it is tame compared to some of the Syrah-like versions from the appellation, it is certainly the exotic selection of the bunch showing powerful, earthy aromatics along with a ripe extended palate.

2006 Anthill Farms Syrah Windsor Oaks Vineyard Russian River Valley Red Wine; Syrah/Shiraz; Sonoma; $27.98

These guys are making their name with Pinot Noir, but they always try to make a wine that their “friends can afford to drink.” This Syrah was born of this goal, and after last year, I’d say they have a lot more friends. This wine wasn’t around long last year, so only a few of you got to try it before you came back and bought us out of it, so the rest of you couldn’t try it. It is all the things you love about California without anything you don’t. The nose is beautifully minty and meaty, and this carries into the creamy palate. As California wine goes, it remains one of the best deals going. Want to hear more? Really? Email me at ben.winehouse@sbcglobal.net.

Carlisle New Releases, and a few thoughts

2006 Carlisle Winery Zinfandel Sonoma County Red Wine; Zinfandel; Sonoma; $19.98

2006 Carlisle Winery Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Red Wine; Zinfandel; Sonoma; $32.98

2006 Carlisle Winery Syrah Russian River Valley Red Wine; Syrah/Shiraz; Sonoma; $32.98

With the Carlisle wines, we usually just send out an email saying, “Here they are. Buy soon, if you actually want some.” BLAH, BLAH, BLAH, RIGHT? You hear that all the time from us. In our defense we do focus on the small production stuff. If you hear us claiming that we have limited quantities of Yellow Tail or Veuve Cliquot, you would have reason to be suspicious, but I assure you we’re on the level. There isn’t much in terms of inventory, and Carlisle wines disappear without our saying much. However, I think we need to take the time every once in a while to remind everybody why we’re behind the wines we carry. Even wines that sell themselves. Even Carlisle. After all this is a small operation devoted to quality, like us. And what quality it is! Since I work in a store with so many French wines, my sensibility tends toward restraint. I end up being pretty critical of the California wines that are presented to us. In fact, I’m probably a little too hard on some of the wines. A lot of wines get dinged for high alcohol, extraction, or over-ripeness, and that’s just how it is. That said, the Carlisle wines are not meek wines. They are robust and rich, and I think they are some of the most delicious wines being made in California. There is a certain refinement here even though we’re dealing with powerful Zinfandel and Rhone varieties. I imagine it comes from a perfectionist streak running through Mr. Officer. And let’s talk about Mike Officer. The man lowers the price on a wine that he considers one of his best versions to date simply because he made a little more, and he wants to fight the idea that California wines are too expensive. The fact is he could easily charge $10 extra per bottle simply because the label says Carlisle. Not to mention the raves that Parker always heaps on the wines. The two more expensive offerings are a great deal, so when the Sonoma County comes out at $19.98, we can only reckon this is a price offered by a winemaker who genuinely wants to share his craft with as many people as possible. With that in mind, please limit your initial order to no more than four of each wine. We’d like to share these wines with all customers who are interested. If you would like more, just mention it in the customer comments section or send us an email. Back to Carlisle. You can taste “perfectionist” in the wines. Not in an overbearing, tinkering too much way, instead this is someone who insists on quality everywhere. The attention to details doesn’t necessarily tame the wildness of Zin and Syrah, it adds a certain ‘fineness’, allowing the wine to exist on two seemingly contradictory levels. These are some of the most regal power-driven wines out there. And they show no signs of letting up. The motto of this winery seems to be, “We will never be finished making our wines better.” To me, that is the way it should be. And that’s why we keep selling these wines and asking for more than they can give us. – Ben Jordan

2006 Carlisle Winery Zinfandel Sonoma County Red Wine; Zinfandel; Sonoma; $19.98

“Officer’s 2006 Zinfandel Sonoma (which comes from multiple sites and is his largest production wine – a whopping 860 cases) exhibits the ripeness of the vintage, with huge blueberry and raspberry fruit notes along with some earth, underbrush, and pepper. The wine has flashy aromatics, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and good underlying acidity, but the lushness and intensity will make it quite a stunning wine to drink now and over the next 5-7 years. 91-93 Points.” – Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #174.

2006 Carlisle Winery Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Red Wine; Zinfandel; Sonoma; $32.98

“The 2006 Zinfandel Dry Creek, whose largest proportion comes from the Teldeschi Ranch (planted in 1885), is blended with 14% Petite Sirah. Like most of these Zinfandels, this wine sees 25-35% new oak and, of course, is bottled unfiltered. The wine has a distinct terroir character to it – earthy, spicy, with a strong underlying mineral/steely component, some delicious sweet cherry jam notes as well as some blacker fruits. On the mouth, the wine has fabulous fruit, is full-bodied, relatively supple-textured, and beautifully pure and long. 90-92 Points.” – Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #174.

2006 Carlisle Winery Syrah Russian River Valley Red Wine; Syrah/Shiraz; Sonoma; $32.98

“The 2006 Syrah Russian River, which is 100% Syrah with 25% whole clusters used, displays impressive fruit, and plenty of roasted meat and herbal notes that are dominated by the blackberry and cassis fruit of this wine. Some creosote and tar also make an appearance in this full-throttle, juicy Syrah. 91-93 Points.” – Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #174.