May 6, 2008 by winehousesf
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$28.04 per bottle with case discount.
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 The second chance.
What’s so wonderful about this wine? For one thing, from my point of view, I get a second shot at it. I had planned on cellaring this because I enjoyed it out of barrel, and who passes up 2005 1er Cru red Burgundy at around $30? Not me. I stalk wines like this. Six bottles were as good as in my cellar except for the fact that a wholesale account swooped in when my back was turned and took our entire inventory. I remember the day well. I walked past the loading dock and saw a pile of wine. “What’s all the Monnot Maranges doing on the loading dock?” I inquired gently, yet firmly. “We sold it all to *name omitted to protect the semi-innocent*,” was the answer. My jaw dropped. I shook my fist. I howled. But there was nothing to be done. Or was there? Turned out there was still a bit more in France. It arrived in our warehouse last week.
The Xavier Monnot wines are relatively new to us, but we’ve already taken a shine to their verve and intricacy. Monnot’s 2005 red 1er Crus from Beaune and Volnay are notable for their depth and concentration. This is coupled with subtle tannin extraction that avoids any overwrought character brought on by carelessness in vintages of high dry extract. This Maranges is in the same mold except for the fact that it is a 1er Cru monopole for $28.04 with the case discount. Let’s look at that previous sentence. Less than $30 for a 1er Cru? True the Clos de la Fuissiere isn’t Richebourg, but the wine in this bottle is definitely high quality red Burgundy. You folks that were asking for vineyard designate Burgundy under $30 and I kept saying it doesn’t exist, well, I’m happy I’m wrong. For a few days anyway.
This is one of those wines that will slake our thirst for the reds from this vintage in 5 years. It will be hitting its stride when those broad shouldered $70 and up bottles are just beginning to peak out from their structure. It is technically drinkable now in terms of the tannin profile, in that it doesn’t tear the roof of your mouth off, but the wine is more shy now than it was 6 months ago, signaling it is heading off to sleep with the rest of the 05 reds. When we opened it one morning (yes, morning, we’re professionals and therefore allowed to open wine in the morning, it makes our palates stronger) it was reticent, but by the evening when I took it home, the aromatics had arrived, and the palate was just beginning to emerge. The next evening it started to hum, and now I have a nice stash of it in my cellar. So, if you are curious, be patient after you open it, but the best strategy is to be truly patient and wait till the two thousand teens. Besides Burgundy wants bottle bouquet, and the only way to get some of that is to age the wine in bottle.
Maranges is basically an extension of Santenay and the Clos de la Fuissiere is in the sweet spot of the appellation, half way up the hill. Though in normal vintages the wines are more delicate than the Cotes de Nuits powerhouses, 2005 finds it right where you want Burgundy: with concentration and finesse. Kind of like Chambolle Musigny at half the price. The mantra of ‘buy little wines in big vintages’ has never been so appropriate as the relatively obscure Maranges shows well ahead of it’s classification. Who knew that our best value 1er Cru from this vintage would come at the end of the campaign, but I think it is a perfect way to book end a years worth of wines from this outstanding vintage. - Ben Jordan
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$28.04 per bottle with case discount.
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Tasting Notes
As I said before, the wine was shy when we opened it, but the nose opened nicely with a few hours of coaxing. One trick I employ to get a sneak peak at the aromatics to come is to let the wine sit covered in the glass (we use the base pieces from broken stemware) for a while. When I come back to it, I don’t worry about swirling, just put it to my nose, and I find all sorts of perfume that was hidden by the wine’s youth. This practice brought my first shiver of excitement for this Maranges. Upon later inspection this wine was effusing the aromas without the aid of my trickery, and not to pour another glass for a drunk horse, but I love the magic of aromatics.
‘Cracked cherry’ is a tasting note term I would like to coin. In the same way cracking pepper releases the essence and flavor of the peppercorn, this wine has a snappy, essence of cherry character to it. There is also a ‘fleeting spice-rack’ aspect to the attack. It comes at you when you’re not looking and then runs off in the other direction before you have a chance to really detail it. When that happens to me I write things like ‘sandalwood’ because I don’t know what sandalwood tastes like, and I have a sneaking suspicion that no one else does either. On another level, the finish reminds me of Bordeaux. This may sound odd, but it has that lovely earthen character that sets Bordeaux apart from New World cousins. It is what I think we meant when we used to describe wines as “dry”, not in a sugar sense or in terms of the tannic interaction with the palate, but in terms of the flavor as the fruit finishes. It is both attractive and distinct. This is a sensation that always translates itself into class and poise in my notes. And that’s really what we should say about this wine. Lots of class, and lots of poise.
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Tags: 2005 Burgundy, Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Fuissiere, Monopole, Pinot Noir, Red Burgundy, Xavier Monnot
Posted in 2005, Ben Jordan, Burgundy, Cote du Beaune, General, Maranges, Xavier Monnot | No Comments »
May 1, 2008 by winehousesf
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$12.31 per bottle with case discount.
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 A customer and I got into a long conversation about 2005 Bordeaux wines which ultimately lead to a discussion of wine prices. I admit, I have bought some ‘05’s, and hope to buy more, but none of the blue chip first growths and such for me. No, my pared down lifestyle won’t allow for that. However, as I explained to my customer rather optimistically, as long as there are bang for your buck, complex, and charming country wines out there, I know I will always be drinking well. This interchange came rushing back to me from the depths of my cluttered mind as I took my first whiff of the 2005 Rouge Select from Chateau D’Or et de Gueules. THIS IS IT! This is what I was talking about! Warm, sticky blue/black berry fruit aromas drift out of the glass revealing crushed rock and earthy minerality. At a staff development day, the first taste of this wine unleashed a great big smile from me. I looked to my colleagues for validation and consensus. I was met with equally giddy smiles. Yes, this is good, really good. A little background: Diane Puymorin purchased the estate in 1998 and embarked on a vigorous task of replanting and other such winery improvements. The fruits of her labor are definitely paying off, as her wines go from strength to strength. Her wines are not going unnoticed either. Diane was recently featured in Decanter where they described her wines as “stylish, complex and assertive-much like herself”. A featured Wine House Staff favorite, the 2003 Rouge Select received a whopping 91 pts from the Wine Advocate and virtually disappeared from our store in a matter of minutes (what little we had left from our persistent recommendations). So let this be a warning to you: buy now, you won’t regret it. I am going to go out on the limb and say the ‘05 is even better than the ’03. A blend of roughly half syrah with the balance divided between old vine carignan and grenache, this deeply fruited red has dimension and complexity. There is certainly ample fruit but then there is that added something else that can only be described as that “Chateau D’or et de Gueules thing”. Yes, that is a technical term the Wine House staff has coined. One sip of this wine and you’ll immediately understand. An analogy I like to overuse is that it gives me the same type of pleasure that a true old-vine zinfandel does, not necessarily similar in flavor but it has that combo of gooey fruit matched with soil and herb.
And so, Lent is finally over, my family is celebrating Easter and after my fill of vodka and kholodetz (you’ll have to look this one up) my plan is to marinate some Lamb, throw it on the grill and wash it down with this amazing wine! - Anya Balistreri |
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$12.31 per bottle with case discount.
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Tags: 2005, 2005 Boredeaux, 2005 Rouge Select, Carignane, Chateau D’Or et de Gueules, Diane Puymorin, Gold, Grenache, lamb, marinate, Mourvedre, red, Syrah, wine
Posted in Anya Balistreri, General | No Comments »
April 20, 2008 by winehousesf
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One bottle each of five Pinot Noirs and one Syrah. See individual listings below.
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| Two bottles each of five Pinot Noirs and one Syrah. See individual listings below.
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 Last year, we debuted these wines without really knowing what kind of response to expect. I knew I liked them (a lot), but I had to wait until people got the wines in their glasses. We sold the carp out of them, like they were Varner or Carlisle with big points. A month or so later Alan Meadows at Burghound came out with high praise and high scores, and all of a sudden these guys were no longer a secret. Almost a year later, our customers are still asking for more. Which makes the release of the 2006s a welcome occasion.
We were lucky to get in with these wines when we did, which I proclaim a triumph of peskiness. Now we’re on the list, and the Anthill guys were nice enough to maintain our allocation. Which we appreciate, because restaurants are already starting to devour this stuff. When I went up to taste the 2006s from bottle, a buyer from a local wine bar ordered 20 cases of the Comptche for his by-the-glass program. When case production is in the low hundreds, 20 here and 20 there means sold out soon.
I tasted the 2006s from barrel and bottle, and it was a pleasure to remind myself of what initially drew me in. They are wines of refined succulence, seductive length, and intricate aromatics. They fold into food and quilt (quilt, the verb) across the palate. To call Anthill pioneers of California Pinot Noir might sound odd, but these guys are definitely in new territory, and their’s is a path worth following.
If you missed the wines last year, and you’re wondering what the deuce I’m going on about, Anthill Farms is a partnership of three winemakers/viticulturists who met in the cellar at Williams Seylem. Their approach is not complicated: The California wine industry is, for the most part, divided between growers and winemakers, and the result is that the two are not always working toward the same objectives. This can compromise fruit quality in the name of business. Anthill’s solution is to cultivate genuine partnerships with smaller vineyards. They end up doing some or all of the viticulture, and they coax the fruit to ripeness right alongside their growers. To paraphrase Webster Marquez, they are significantly (really, a whole lot) more involved in the day to day of their vineyards than most “estate” vineyards. The result is boutique, and in some cases micro-vineyards that produce wines the likes of which we don’t often see coming from California.
There is a tendency for us to call Pinot Noirs that we like (like these) Burgundian. I say that’s a simplification. What I love about these wines is that they succeed aromatically, texturally, and in the nuance and persistence of the flavors; they succeed as Pinot Noir. The Syrah succeeds as Syrah, in case you were wondering. They remind me that I like good Burgundy not simply because it is Burgundy, but because it is Pinot Noir from an excellent site. The best Burgundies succeed as Pinot Noir, and since Burgundy came first, we call successful California Pinot ‘Burgundian’. Which is strange because when we eat a nice chicken we don’t compare it to an egg. Yes, I’m saying the egg came first. Try and stop me. Let’s forget that terminology. These wines operate in many of the same ways fine Burgundy operates, but they are not insecure, trying to be Burgundy. Rather they know they are Pinot Noir, and they are Californian as a starting point. They build upon this and paradoxically become wines to cure California fatigue. They reveal their place as well as any wine from this state. They are distinct and exciting to have in your glass. The Anthill wines are Pinot Noir as Pinot Noir should be. And that’s why (the deuce) I keep going on about them.
We have two samplers again this year, a six pack and a full case, both with 5 Pinots and the outstanding-value Syrah. Both offer significant discounts off the normal retail and give you the chance to taste across the Anthill portfolio. I’ve included my notes on each wine below. - Ben Jordan
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One bottle each of five Pinot Noirs and one Syrah.
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| Two bottles each of five Pinot Noirs and one Syrah.
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Tasting Notes
Many times I won’t do formal tasting notes, but since none of the critics have published yet (they’ve tasted and liked a lot), I figured I should try to translate my chicken scratch into something helpful.
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This is the first year for this appellation wine. It’s basically Demuth with a little Abbey Harris. This was the first wine they poured, and it jumped out immediately with the aromatics. Snappy and vigorous and with these black tea back notes that seem be an aromatic calling card for these wines. The palate is spicy and well fruited, and it’s already showing well, though this wine will really start to sing after a few more months in bottle.
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One of the great examples of extreme ‘vineyarding’. Evidently you have to drive out to Mendocino and then back inland to get to this site. The nose is very perfumed, a perfect example of why people are excited about these wines. In the mouth it is cool fruit and spice, and finishes with cream and vanilla bean. It wants time, but it sure is delicious already.
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Probably showing the best in the lineup the day I tasted, its aromatics are quite refined and focused for a wine this young. The palate brings berries, herbs, tea and an expansive midpalate. A lot of length here, and the wood is well integrated for such a young California wine. Last year, this was one of the more muscular wines in the lineup, but this year it seems to revel in its subtlety.
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The shy subtlety of last year is replaced with more amplitude and denser fruit. There’s all sorts of clove and anise, making this a wine to stick with for as long as you can. I used to always ooh and ah over the Hirsch vineyard wines, but this is bringing more value while keeping with the high quality that you would expect from a well situated/farmed Sonoma Coast vineyard.
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While the Peter’s and Demuth seemed to flip flop in power from last year, the Tina Marie continues with its more flamboyant Russian River personality. While it is tame compared to some of the Syrah-like versions from the appellation, it is certainly the exotic selection of the bunch showing powerful, earthy aromatics along with a ripe extended palate.
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| These guys are making their name with Pinot Noir, but they always try to make a wine that their “friends can afford to drink.” This Syrah was born of this goal, and after last year, I’d say they have a lot more friends. This wine wasn’t around long last year, so only a few of you got to try it before you came back and bought us out of it, so the rest of you couldn’t try it. It is all the things you love about California without anything you don’t. The nose is beautifully minty and meaty, and this carries into the creamy palate. As California wine goes, it remains one of the best deals going.
Want to hear more? Really? Email me at ben.winehouse@sbcglobal.net.
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Tags: 2006 Pinot Noir, 2006 Syrah, Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, Anthill Farms, boutique, California, Comptche Vineyard, Demuth Vineyard, Peter's Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Russian River Pinot Noir, Russian River Syrah, Small Production, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tina Marie Vineyard, Windsor Oaks Vineyard
Posted in Ben Jordan, General | No Comments »
April 15, 2008 by winehousesf
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$19.54 per bottle with case discount. Website does not calculate discount, but we will apply it when we process your card.
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 Save Me From Myself!!!
You know, once upon a time, I was walking into Tower Records on Bay and Columbus, and as I grabbed the door, out came Carlos Santana. He was as cool as ever and we greeted each other and that was that. I did happen to notice that he must have had around 12-15 CD’s in a bag. I thought, “Wow! Wouldn’t it have been cool to have been here a couple of minutes earlier to see what Carlos buys for himself!” Well, perhaps it’s a lofty analogy comparing my interpretations of wine with Carlos’ of music, but I do taste a lot of wine. It may be a slight breach of etiquette, but I thought I would share a little secret with y’all, and let you know what I’ve been bringing home for myself.
Having been on the customer side for many years, I must admit that I have multiple personalities when it comes to buying wine for my own personal consumption. Sometimes I want to just keep quiet and take a shot on something I don’t know anything about (That’s usually my approach when it comes to films or books, because there is something alluring about that element of surprise, but oh, I’m off the subject, sorry). Sometimes I need to know the skinny on what I’m drinking and make educated selections, and sometimes I solicit advice from someone who has actually tasted the wines (Best way to go). That being said, I have observed these personality types and more in our customers, so I don’t feel so bad. Chances are, if you’ve come in as the “I’ll just ask him what he thinks is good and buy that” type of customer, and you were looking for a satisfying, drinkable 2005 red Burgundy, I would have probably made a squinchy face, bit my lip, and reluctantly led you to the 2005 Bourgogne rouge from Chauvenet-Chopin. You see, for some time now, these have been my little babies. My associates here are aware of this, but nothing is spoken about it. You see, we all have our little pet wines, and it’s rude to dip into a co-worker’s personal stash. That being said, I, of sound mind (I think), am asking you all to save me from myself and try my go-to, pet red Burgundy! Talk about solid old-world Pinot Noir for the right price! I’ve been casually grabbing a bottle here, a bottle there, because they’re sooooo good and they pair so well with a wide variety of food. The downside is, my invoices here are stacking up, and I’m supposed to be trying different wines anyway.
I’ve been called a creature of habit, as I tend to stick to something if it works. Like this wine. Problem is, it’s affecting my job performance! I need to sample the new Santa Duc Gigondas, the new D’or et de Gueles Rouge Select, and the recently released Mure grand crus from Alsace, just to name a few. I’m getting really backed up on what I need to taste, because it’s just so easy to grab one of these instead. We don’t have all that much of it left, so my please accept my apologies if it sells out early. But that’s my goal here. I need help removing the temptation so I can get on with my work. This falls into the it’s good for everybody category. So, fully knowing that I will not get to enjoy this lovely wine any more, I am letting you all in on my little secret. Just so you know, I have a bottle on my dining room table as I write this, and I will definitely bring two more bottles with me when I leave the shop today. But that’s it, scout’s honor!. - Peter Zavialoff |
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$19.54 per bottle with case discount. Website does not calculate discount, but we will apply it when we process your card.
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| Tasting Notes As with any young red wine, this will improve dramatically over the course of a couple of hours once some air gets to it. I don’t decant it, I prefer to notice the changes in the glass. Once poured, I am immediately captivated by the color. It’s a bright looking combo of crimson meets (dare I say) burgundy. This suggests vibrant fruit made in a leaner style than something we might find on this side of the pond. On the nose, imagine vibrant medium red berry fruit seductively flowing in and around a cigar box. On the palate, the spiciness braces that zippy fruit laying the foundation for the nuances to come. Hints of pencil shavings, rasberries, cherries, and a little flint come to mind. The finish is zippy and fresh and the wine’s components softly fade in harmony. All in all, this has provided me with so much pleasure, it’s impossible to keep mum about it!
I would love to hear any thoughts or questions you may have on this wine, on Burgundy, on my recent trip to Bordeaux to taste 2007 out of barrel, and especially any insight as to what Carlos Santana listens to. Write me: peter.winehouse@sbcglobal.net |
Tags: 2005 Red Burgundy, Carlos Santana, Chauvenet Chopin, France, French, Pinot Noir, Saving me from myself, Staff Secret, Value, wine San Francisco
Posted in General, Peter Zavialoff | No Comments »
April 8, 2008 by winehousesf
 With the Carlisle wines, we usually just send out an email saying, “Here they are. Buy soon, if you actually want some.” BLAH, BLAH, BLAH, RIGHT? You hear that all the time from us. In our defense we do focus on the small production stuff. If you hear us claiming that we have limited quantities of Yellow Tail or Veuve Cliquot, you would have reason to be suspicious, but I assure you we’re on the level. There isn’t much in terms of inventory, and Carlisle wines disappear without our saying much. However, I think we need to take the time every once in a while to remind everybody why we’re behind the wines we carry. Even wines that sell themselves. Even Carlisle. After all this is a small operation devoted to quality, like us. And what quality it is!
Since I work in a store with so many French wines, my sensibility tends toward restraint. I end up being pretty critical of the California wines that are presented to us. In fact, I’m probably a little too hard on some of the wines. A lot of wines get dinged for high alcohol, extraction, or over-ripeness, and that’s just how it is. That said, the Carlisle wines are not meek wines. They are robust and rich, and I think they are some of the most delicious wines being made in California. There is a certain refinement here even though we’re dealing with powerful Zinfandel and Rhone varieties. I imagine it comes from a perfectionist streak running through Mr. Officer.
And let’s talk about Mike Officer. The man lowers the price on a wine that he considers one of his best versions to date simply because he made a little more, and he wants to fight the idea that California wines are too expensive. The fact is he could easily charge $10 extra per bottle simply because the label says Carlisle. Not to mention the raves that Parker always heaps on the wines. The two more expensive offerings are a great deal, so when the Sonoma County comes out at $19.98, we can only reckon this is a price offered by a winemaker who genuinely wants to share his craft with as many people as possible. With that in mind, please limit your initial order to no more than four of each wine. We’d like to share these wines with all customers who are interested. If you would like more, just mention it in the customer comments section or send us an email.
Back to Carlisle. You can taste “perfectionist” in the wines. Not in an overbearing, tinkering too much way, instead this is someone who insists on quality everywhere. The attention to details doesn’t necessarily tame the wildness of Zin and Syrah, it adds a certain ‘fineness’, allowing the wine to exist on two seemingly contradictory levels. These are some of the most regal power-driven wines out there. And they show no signs of letting up. The motto of this winery seems to be, “We will never be finished making our wines better.” To me, that is the way it should be. And that’s why we keep selling these wines and asking for more than they can give us. - Ben Jordan
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“Officer’s 2006 Zinfandel Sonoma (which comes from multiple sites and is his largest production wine – a whopping 860 cases) exhibits the ripeness of the vintage, with huge blueberry and raspberry fruit notes along with some earth, underbrush, and pepper. The wine has flashy aromatics, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and good underlying acidity, but the lushness and intensity will make it quite a stunning wine to drink now and over the next 5-7 years. 91-93 Points.” - Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #174.
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“The 2006 Zinfandel Dry Creek, whose largest proportion comes from the Teldeschi Ranch (planted in 1885), is blended with 14% Petite Sirah. Like most of these Zinfandels, this wine sees 25-35% new oak and, of course, is bottled unfiltered. The wine has a distinct terroir character to it – earthy, spicy, with a strong underlying mineral/steely component, some delicious sweet cherry jam notes as well as some blacker fruits. On the mouth, the wine has fabulous fruit, is full-bodied, relatively supple-textured, and beautifully pure and long. 90-92 Points.” - Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #174.
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| “The 2006 Syrah Russian River, which is 100% Syrah with 25% whole clusters used, displays impressive fruit, and plenty of roasted meat and herbal notes that are dominated by the blackberry and cassis fruit of this wine. Some creosote and tar also make an appearance in this full-throttle, juicy Syrah. 91-93 Points.” - Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #174. |
Tags: 2006, California Wine, Carlisle, Dry Creek Valley, Mike Officer, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Syrah, Zinfandel
Posted in Ben Jordan, General | No Comments »
April 1, 2008 by winehousesf
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$17.98 per bottle with 10% full case discount on this normally NET wine.
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 This vintage is beginning to flow, bringing the excitement of sampling some of the higher tiered wines. It also brings the ability to make generalizations, so let’s get started doing that. It seems that the 2005 Right Bank wines, and the satellites that follow their style, will be known for their jaw dropping intensity. If you thought the Château Couronneau Volte Face was powerful, wait till you try the Premier Vin, the Pierre de Cartier. It is endowed with the adrenaline and sinew to stare down most Bordeaux blends produced in the new world, but it also carries the dark minerality, bitter pencil and leather that we affectionately refer to as ‘old school’. We got an introduction to the power in the regular Couronneau, and the Volte Face brought a level of polish and concentration. This is like a Volte Face that needs 5 years extra bottle age.If you like rough-housing with a wine, in the way that some puppies like to get thrown around, (the exhilaration of going up against something stronger than you) then drink this wine now. And have it with meat. If you don’t eat meat, I’ll be honest: This would annihilate most every vegetarian or fish dish I have ever had. So you can cross over to the dark side, or shoot me an email, and we’ll find something a little lighter. For those who don’t have a young pup palate, put this away and forget about it. It is 2005 Bordeaux after all, and like all the prestige wines, it is stacked and layered upon itself, and it requires patience.
While I have compared the 2005 Couronneau’s to new world wines in terms of ripeness and scale, I must reiterate this tastes like France. Between the meat and pepper and leather, this is not filtered UC Davis wine. Upon opening, you’ll find these “old school Bordeaux” components dominate the aromatics, but as the wine opens in the decanter (or over three days as I like to do) the fruit steps forward and commands the attention. The other components become highlights that make this wine compellingly Bordeaux, while the vintage gives it plenty of crossover appeal.
With good storage this wine should coast easily to its tenth birthday and beyond. At $17.98 per bottle on the full case, this is an intriguing buy. In normal Bordeaux vintages or any Napa vintage you‘d have to pay between $30 and $40 to get this depth and intensity. I keep saying it over and over. As much hype as there is for the famous names in this vintage, there is so much compelling evidence for buying under the radar. And I’m going to keep stashing these types of wines away till the well runs dry. - Ben Jordan |
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$17.98 per bottle with 10% full case discount on this normally NET wine.
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Tasting Notes
If there is a definition of palate presence, this is it. From the flavors, to the body, to the textures that extend the finish, this is intense. We’ve tasted this wine over a number of vintages, and while it is always good, it has never had such an arresting presence. I mentioned the leather and pencil lead, the notes of classic Bordeaux, and they are there. There is also dark red and purple fruit that possesses great sweetness. As I mentioned the wine is stacked. You can chew on the structure. Many of the 2005 Bordeaux will be long lived, and this is one of them. |
Tags: 2005, Bordeaux, cellar, Couronneau, Merlot, Old School, Pierre de Cartier, Value, Volte Face
Posted in Ben Jordan, General | No Comments »
March 26, 2008 by winehousesf
| Every once in a while something special drops in your lap. You can search through price books, go to tastings, visit wine countries, and find nothing. Yet some guy walks in and pours a glass, and you’re looking at him thinking “Where did you come from?” From the Bio Bio Valley in Chile (further south and cooler than the famous regions of Maipo and Casablanca) comes one of the most exciting sub $20 Pinot Noirs I’ve tasted in a long time. Where I’m normally looking for price points that are acceptable under $20 with this grape variety, this wine is impressive-delicious and more suited to the company of $30 dollar wines. You can imagine that winemakers, both Californian and Burgundian, would be happy buying this wine bottled but unlabeled. They could slap their label on it, give it a healthy markup and walk away with a profit, having done very little work. Of course, this won’t be $19.98 forever. They make 600 cases total and with the rising costs of everything, soon this pricing won’t make sense. Please take advantage if you’re into high quality/high value Pinot Noir. We have an allocation for this email, but after that, no guarantee.This wine came to us via the winemaker who is also an importer and wholesaler. He and his wife run the businesses together (she’s a winemaker too), and they had just picked up a label I had been buying direct. He asked if he could come by and pour the new vintage, and the Azul Profundo tagged along. I help a woman find wines for her club, and she was tasting with us. With one look we agreed we were both buying this wine. Beautiful pure fruit, deft oak use (you have to be looking to notice any at all), and a style that speaks to many palates. After watching my wife and mother-in-law fawn over it on Thursday, I started writing. When a wine lights up my wife’s face like that, I go back for more. I’m a Beverage Industry Professional (BIP) so I can get an “It’s good, I like it,” out of her most of the time, but to get that instant glow is difficult and therefore my constant challenge. This is instant glow wine.
I really enjoy this grape when it is done well, and most of the time it is not, so I end up being very picky. I think I’ve written about two non Burgundy Pinot producers total: Cima Collina and Anthill Farms (2006s coming soon!), and this made the cut to be number three. I love what this wine is doing under $20, and everybody who tries it seems to agree. Delicious, quality Pinot Noir with a retro price. There’s not a lot more to say than that.
SCD Dinner Report: Peter and I had two very successful dinners with SubCulture Dining last weekend. 9 courses, eight wines, and too many chocolates to count. There was an abundance of creative, delicious food, and the communal dining environment was a blast. If you were on the fence about attending, and you’re wondering whether you missed out: Yep. I wasn’t exactly sure what Peter and I were getting into, but now I’m looking forward to the next one. If you’re adventurous, you like to eat well, and you enjoy meeting foodies from all walks of life, we recommend checking it out. - Ben Jordan |
Tasting Notes (For the Pinot Noir, not the 9 course meal)
You know me, if the wine does’t smell good, it’s not going home with me. I was skeptical (as I should be) about a Pinot Noir with a price this low, but when I put my nose on it that changed. And then there’s the palate. There’s a wonderful mouthfeel that you can only achieve with this variety. But to really describe this wine we have to talk about the fruit. The way it charms you, the way it carries richness, and the way it harmonizes the experience of the wine as whole. When I’m recommending wine, I feel the need to describe it in terms of its components and how extreme or subtle they are. I do this because everyone has different tastes, and I want them to understand where on their taste spectrum these pieces-parts sit. You really need to do that so you don’t send someone home with exactly the kind of wine they despise. I don’t feel the need to do that here. This speaks the language of all palates. |
Tags: 2006, Azul Profundo, Bio Bio Valley, Chile, Chilean Pinot Noir, Instant Glow, Pinot Noir, Under $20 Pinot Noir, Value
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March 18, 2008 by winehousesf
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$9.76 per bottle with case discount.
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 This wine tastes nothing like Pinot Noir.But sometimes a wine hits me in a way that has nothing to do with the flavors and everything to do with impressions. And out come these semi-contradictory statements. I was talking to a customer the day after drinking a bottle of this, trying to explain why I liked it so much, and out came the title of this email. Call it new wave, call it false advertising, I call it sometimes my notes are more intuitive than logical. It’s the experience of the wine that conjures similar sensations. This Corbieres is medium bodied with less tannin than wines in its peer group, and it pairs eerily well with all sorts of meals. Though it’s not a muscle wine, it still has the ability to impress, and it is texturally pleasing. Pair this with the pepper and sandalwood of the south and you have an intriguing, dynamic wine. It’s one of those bottles that you pour without fanfare, but by the end of the bottle everybody is asking for more and complimenting your wine buying saavy. All for less than $120 a case.
Another way to frame it is that this is a wine that people who like Pinot Noir can enjoy as a substitute for what is passing for the variety in this price range. Why? It’s a wine that is fun to smell. I put it in one of those big bowl Burgundy glasses, and I was having a great time. It has a soft, caressing mouthfeel, and there’s no palate bruising. Then there are the flavors: Rhone, and South of France, yes, but instead of rusticity you have soft tannins and a thoroughly enjoyable experience. It’s a best of both worlds situation except for the fact that there’s another world to take into account, and that’s value. When’s the last time you had an under $10 Pinot that you thought was any good at all? The under $10 Burgundy days are long gone, but this Corbieres marches on.
This wine is a great deal by the bottle, but a case gets our discount. That’s $9.76 per bottle, a price that makes me proud to work here. With all the talk of the down dollar and expensive imports, this Corbieres is having none of it. To me this is exactly the kind of wine that makes adventurous, small companies (like us) so valuable to the wine consumer. We have 25 cases from our LA warehouse scheduled to arrive tomorrow (Monday). We have more coming late Spring/early Summer. If you miss out, please email us with your needs and we will contact you when it arrives concerning price and availability. - Ben Jordan |
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$9.76 per bottle with case discount.
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Tasting Notes
I pretty much went over this earlier in the email, but I really like the aromatics on this wine. It has peppery, herb, spice mélange thing going on and it really does draw you in like good Pinot Noir does. It’s like having the flavors of the southern Rhone with the subtlety and class of Burgundy. I’ve had this wine four times now, and I keep coming back. Peter and I served it at our dinners with Subculture Dining Friday and Saturday nights. Every time I was impressed with the quality and versatility of this wine. For the curious: This is mostly old vine Carignan finished with Grenache and Syrah.
Tags: 2005, Carignane, Corbieres, Domaine Sainte Eugenie, Grenache, Languedoc, Old Vine, Pinot Noir of the Languedoc, Syrah
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March 11, 2008 by winehousesf
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$59.49 per bottle with mix/match case discount.
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 I’ve been asked to give last call on our Subculture Dining events next week. See Below.In last week’s email, I wrote about how I prefer to forego new clothes in order to stock my wine cellar. And wouldn’t you know it, on Wednesday a concerned customer gave me a sweater when he picked up his wine. I don’t think it was a new sweater, but he said he washed it, so that was very nice of him. This week I would like to point out that I have been foregoing those delicious ham and cheese croissants from Tartine in order to buy Burgundy. Man, those things are good. I think there’s a stick of butter in each croissant. Man, I love butter. And Ham. And cheese.One of the wines contributing to my lack of Tartine croissants is the 2005 Albert Morot Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes. I own this wine in 375ml, 750ml, and 1.5L, and I would probably buy 187’s or 3L’s if we had them available. Wouldn’t that be cool? 187’s of the great vintages, so we could sample them? I bet a winemaker would slap my face for saying that. This is officially a late arrival, and there was a short time when we thought we weren’t going to get the 750ml’s at all. But we raised a ruckus, as it didn’t seem right for us to miss one of the top vineyards of this appellation in this great vintage from a producer that we’ve carried for such a long time. Plus the Beaune Bressandes is a favorite of a number of us Wine Housers, we buy it every year for our cellars, and we weren’t willing to have a hole in our verticals. Personally, I love the wine, and I think it matches many of the Gevreys and Vosnes from the Côtes du Nuits in terms of depth and ageability, yet it costs anywhere from 20%-40% less for comparable 1er Cru quality. Even in less proclaimed vintages like 1997, the Morot Bressandes is a contemplative wine of smoke, forest floor, licorice and succulent length. In 2005, it aspires to Grand Cru, and it will outlast some wines labeled as such. Far from a snappy, red-fruited, early to medium term Beaune, this is darker, deeper vin de garde. Not that I’m old enough to call it like this, but I think it will be one of the masterpiece wines for this domaine, and it will be a benchmark for judging Beaune Bressandes. In some vintages I lack the financial wherewithal or enthusiasm to buy all over the Burgundy map, but this is the first wine I buy every year. I guess I should put that into context. I don’t chase micro-quantities of Grand Crus or the domaine names of the hour. I’m looking for high quality at a price that is reasonable. However, I think if I had unlimited means and a cellar full of Musigny and Griottes, I would still buy this wine.This will be one of the last 2005 red Burgundies I’ll write about, with one or two more on the horizon (hopefully) that are basically reorders of wines we sold out of immediately. I wouldn’t have been able to write about this had it not arrived later than everything else. It would have been long sold. As it is we have about 6 cases and a half case of splits, so it won’t be around for long, but I am glad I got to write about it, as I do love it so. - Ben Jordan |
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$59.49 per bottle with mix/match case discount.
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$31.44 per bottle with mix/match case discount. Two half bottles equal one full bottle for discounting purposes.
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Tasting Notes
I’ve had this three times, twice at the domaine and once from 375ml in my apartment, and each time I’ve been impressed with the sheer amplitude of the material. Not amplitude in a Barossa Shiraz way, but in the way the flavor seems to replicate and expand across the palate. Even in such a young wine, there are layers and complexities that make it an exciting, convincing Burgundy. That said, you would be doing yourself a disservice to drink too much of this now. It is a wine for 2015 (2012 at least) and beyond, and that’s when we’re really going to say something about it. If you must taste it, I suggest snagging one of the half bottles. The wine is dense and structured, but endowed with that silken cream mouthfeel that I’ve noticed in the vintage, from Gallois’ Gevreys to Lamarche’s Grand Rue. For more detailed notes, I’ve included David S’s notes from the Wine Advocate below. |
Wine Advocate Notes
From David Schildknecht in Wine Advocate Issue #171:“The Morot 2005 Beaune Bressandes displays scents of game, blackberry, wood smoke and sea breeze. Darkly-fruited on the palate, with hints of fruit skin bitterness, this is at the same time rich and marrowy, savory and juicy, as well as possessed of invigorating salinity. The tannins here are very refined and a creaminess of texture is already emerging. This has about it the aura of one of the Morot Beaunes of yesteryear – I think of the 1972 – that might become something really special. It would be most interesting and worthwhile to cellar. (Don’t be misled by my apparently conservative score: I can only rate what’s here today, and Morot wines in a vintage like this simply aren’t about being youthfully flattering and giving of themselves.) 91 Points. |
Subculture Dining Event
Last call for reservations. Next weekend (March 14th and 15th), Peter and I will be dining and presenting wine at an “underground” evening with the Dissident Chef and Subculture Dining. In addition to dinner and wine, the folks at Recchiuti will be on hand to discuss and present their chocolate and confections. Peter and I are getting excited, so if you are too, we’ll see you there. Note: We are appearing on a volunteer basis, and all donations given will go to Subculture Dining.
SubCulture Dining WebSite
To order tickets/make reservations.
Questions/Comments? Email me at ben.winehouse@sbcglobal.net. For orders, please use our main email: winehouse@sbcglbal.net.
Tags: 2005, Albert Morot, Beaune 1er Cru, Bressandes, Burgundy, butter, cellar, croissants, ham, Pinot Noir, Red Wine, sweater, Tartine
Posted in Ben Jordan, General | No Comments »
March 8, 2008 by winehousesf
A great way to learn about Burgundy and its wines, and (even better) the perfect way to get a discount on two high quality bottles. Sign up now! Click here to purchase the sampler. |
Basic Facts for those of you who are new to the program: Every two months we select two Burgundies, one red and one white. We include write-ups detailing the background of the grower, the vineyard source, and the wine. Finally we knock a significant percentage off the prices of the wines, making the Sampler price $89.98. If you would like us to add you to the Sampler Club and receive the wines regularly, please specify “store pickup” or “ship it” in the comments field, and we will charge your card accordingly. If you would like us to ship faster than the standard ground service, please specify this as well.
Before we get excited about the potential greatness of 2008 vintage (don’t worry we haven’t heard either way), let’s step back pre-2005 frenzy to a vintage known for its classical qualities. 2004 in both red and whites are indeed archetypes of what we expect from Burgundy: minerality, freshness and acid cut, and an undeniable sense of the vineyard.
2004 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru “Clos Du Château,” Château de la Maltroye
This producer is well know for deep, rich white Burgundies from Chassagne Montrachet, but the reds fly under the radar and are outstanding values as a result. The Chassagne vineyards used to be planted predominantly to Pinot Noir, but a relatively recent (for Burgundy) Chardonnay planting trend has tipped the balance toward Chardonnay. Jean Pierre Cornut proves that outstanding 1er Cru reds can be drawn from these terroirs as long as the proper pruning and growing practices are applied. He farms for quality, risking significant financial loss by controlling yields at flowering. The result is evident in the wines, which are pure and multi-dimensional, and at the risk of overhyping, they are some of the best values going for 1er Cru red Burgundy. The Clos du Château is marked by bright, red fruit and dried herbs. The acidity energizes the aromatic qualities of the wine, focuses the flavors, and keeps the palate very much alive. The wine is approachable now, but will develop nicely over the next 5-8 years.
2004 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru “Les Vergelesses”, Jean Boillot
Henri Boillot (son of Jean in charge of this domaine) makes rock-star white Burgundy, if you’ll excuse the technical term. From the vineyard to the bottle the quality is very high, and it has been said that less discerning vignerons have made wine from the grapes that Henri discards. While he is able to fetch healthy prices, if you look away from his most famous vineyards, you can find exciting wines for reasonable tariffs. That is the case with his 2004 Les Vergelesses which showcases the high quality of the domaine. Boillot’s 2004s are notable for their freshness and clarity coupled with depth and length. Without exception, every customer who “splurges” on these wines returns smiling and thoroughly impressed. This is a great way to study the house style as it is layered and polished, one of the classiest expressions of this vineyard we’ve seen. As the price of 1er Cru white Burgundy reaches for the heavens, this offers a great deal for a good deal less. The wine is entering its sweet spot of evolution where the time in bottle has softened it and developed more complex flavors. It’s ready to drink now, but will continue its evolution into the next decade. Click here to purchase the sampler.
Posted in A Taste of Burgundy, Ben Jordan, General, Wine Clubs/Samplers | No Comments »
